"Into The Black stretches a single pitch up Junk Clump’s South Face, delivering an accessible 5.8 trad challenge. From a sustained hand crack to a narrow offwidth crux, it’s a desert climb that demands steady technique amid sunlit granite and sweeping views."
Situated in the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park, Into The Black carves a bold line up Junk Clump’s South Face. This single-pitch trad route offers an unpretentious but solid climb, anchored by an 80-foot hand crack that steadily challenges your grip and technique. The crack stretches along coarse granite, inviting fingers to settle and hands to wrench against the rock’s reassuring texture. As you ascend, the dry desert air carries the faint rustle of wind through sparse vegetation and the occasional call of distant birds, amplifying the quiet intensity of the climb.
The real test lies near the top, where the hand crack opens into a narrow chimney that swiftly transitions into a wide offwidth section. This offwidth crux demands commitment and precise body positioning, pushing climbers to employ friction and technique rather than brute strength alone. The rock here feels rough and reliable, but the effort peaks as you negotiate this tight, awkward squeeze. A standard rack suffices, with placements straightforward though requiring attention to placement variety to protect the full pitch.
Accessing Into The Black begins with a moderate approach through Joshua Tree’s iconic desert landscape. The ascent follows a clear, well-trod path surrounded by sun-faded boulders and resilient scrub, reaching the base in roughly 15 minutes from the trailhead. The area’s latitude and longitude place the route in a sun-drenched aspect perfect for morning climbs when the rock temperature is cool, avoiding the afternoon heat that can sap both energy and grip.
For climbers planning this route, hydration is crucial, especially in warmer months. Lightweight shoes with sticky rubber excel on the granite’s textured surface, while tape can safeguard your hands for the crack’s persistent friction. Given the route’s straightforward nature and modest grade of 5.8, it welcomes intermediate climbers seeking to sharpen their crack climbing skills with a manageable but rewarding challenge.
As you top out, panoramic views of the Sheep Pass Area unfold—rolling desert flats, inviting silence, and sunbaked stone stretching beyond. Descent is simple, typically walking off to the north, though attention is necessary on loose scree. Into The Black blends steady technique with desert grit, offering a climb that engages both body and mind while framed by one of California’s most enduring climbing landscapes.
While protection is reliable, the offwidth section requires careful positioning; slipping here can lead to extended falls. Keep an eye on rock quality at the chimney and avoid climbing after rain when the rock can become slick.
Start early to avoid climbing on hot rock during midday
Wear tape or gloves to protect hands from friction in the crack
Bring plenty of water; shade is minimal on the route
Scout descent route carefully to avoid loose scree
A standard trad rack covers all gear needs here, with protection mainly placed in the hand crack and chimney section. No specialized gear is required, but varied cams and nuts help secure tricky spots near the offwidth crux.
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