"Intermezzo delivers a sharp 50-foot trad climb on the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, blending a measured approach with precise gear placement. Ideal for climbers ready to test small-crack protection in a serene canyon setting."
Intermezzo offers a crisp introduction to technical trad climbing along the quieter stretch of Wailing Wall, carved into the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch climb stretches just 50 feet but demands a thoughtful approach and solid gear placement within small cracks. From the approach, the rock face rises with a clean ramp angling steadily upward on the right side. Climbers begin by ascending this ramp, gaining height while carefully scouting for key gear placements in the narrower fissures that require precise hands and feet. Once you reach a distinctive point on the ramp, a subtle traverse to the left opens a new section that tests both balance and technique on edges worn smooth by the mountain’s history.
The route’s rating of 5.9- hints at moderate challenge, easing the transition for climbers stepping into the trad realm with confidence. The climb favors deliberate movements more than brute strength—it’s about patiently setting protection and moving fluidly while reading the subtle shift in rock texture beneath your fingers. At roughly 50 feet, the pitch ends on the "midcliff" ledge, a comfortable spot to rest, anchor, and take in the rugged environment that frames the canyon.
St. Vrain Canyon’s South Fork carries the energy of a wild creek below, pushing cool gusts that dance past your chalky hands. The rock is a mix of solid rhyolite, textured enough for reliable holds but with pockets that challenge your gear placements. Protection on this route is straightforward but demands attention; small cracks require smaller cams and nuts, with supplemental runners ready for trickier, less obvious sections. While it’s rated a single pitch, a continuous focus is required, as gear opportunities present themselves in tight windows, rewarding careful observation.
Access to Intermezzo is as much a part of the adventure. The Wailing Wall area is a brief trek from parking in Lyons, threading through a mix of pine-shaded trails and rocky approach slopes. The approach can be succinct, about 15 to 20 minutes, but should be planned during cooler parts of the day to avoid afternoon heat, especially in summer months.
This route rewards climbers who appreciate tight trad moves and proper gear management without the need for extended multi-pitch commitment. Whether coming for a brief session or part of a larger day exploring St. Vrain’s walls, Intermezzo offers a focused climb with straightforward logistics and refreshing canyon ambiance sure to sharpen trad skills and deepen respect for Colorado’s granite forms.
Watch your gear placements closely; some cracks are narrow and require meticulous placement to ensure security. The area features steep ledges near the top, so double-check anchors and avoid loose rock when setting protection.
Start your approach early to avoid afternoon heat in summer.
Scout the cracks carefully before committing gear for security.
Bring a standard trad rack with extra small cams for tricky placements.
Set multiple anchors on the midcliff ledge for safe descent.
The route demands small to medium cams and nuts, focusing on placements in narrow cracks. Be prepared with a rack emphasizing a range of smaller gear, as protection spots are limited but reliable when found.
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