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Intergalactic Prophylactic: A Bold Trad Challenge at Gateway Rock

Big Bear Lake, California United States
trad
single pitch
roof crux
arete
Big Bear Lake
San Bernardino Mountains
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Intergalactic Prophylactic
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Intergalactic Prophylactic challenges climbers with a powerhouse move over a small roof followed by delicate climbing along a sharp arete. This short but demanding trad pitch in Gateway Rock’s northern sector is perfect for those seeking technical intensity near Big Bear Lake."

Intergalactic Prophylactic: A Bold Trad Challenge at Gateway Rock

Intergalactic Prophylactic rises sharply at Gateway Rock, offering a focused, single-pitch trad route that demands both power and precision. This 40-foot climb kicks off with a committed move over a compact roof, testing your upper-body engagement before veering upward along a featured arete. The route’s directness leaves little room for hesitation, encouraging a clear and confident style. The rock’s texture is firm, with edges and holds that reward controlled movement and clean gear placements.

Touching down in the San Bernardino Mountains’ rugged beauty, Gateway Rock stands as a local proving ground just north of Big Bear Lake. The area’s exposed granite walls catch the afternoon sun, warming the stone and setting the stage for focused ascents. The climb’s one-pitch length makes it ideal for a quick, intense session or as part of a larger day exploring nearby routes.

Protection-wise, the route requires a range of traditional gear up to 2.5 inches, demanding thoughtful placement in its varied cracks and seams. The belay anchors are solid, shared with a neighboring route to the left, offering a reliable system before descending via a straightforward walk-off on the climber’s right. This approach keeps safety and convenience in balance, avoiding complex rappels or hazardous downclimbs.

For climbers approaching Intergalactic Prophylactic, timing your ascent during the late morning to early afternoon offers the best light and temperature conditions. The southern exposure means the rock heats quickly, so starting earlier in the day in warmer seasons can help maintain grip and comfort. This route rewards those with solid finger strength and a willingness to commit to the roof section without hesitation.

Gateway Rock itself is part of a less traveled cluster of crags in the San Bernardino Mountains that offer quiet focus away from busier Southern California climbing hotspots. The surrounding forest hums with pine scents and the occasional rustle of wildlife, grounding the experience in the wilderness just beyond urban reach. Whether you’re honing trad skills or chasing the thrill of a sharp, technical move, Intergalactic Prophylactic stands as a compelling objective in this classic climbing zone.

Climber Safety

The roof move involves committing to a small overlap with limited resting; ensure gear is solid before attempting this crux. Loose rock can occasionally be a concern near the belay, so test all holds carefully. The walk-off requires attention to footing but avoids precarious exposure.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid the hot afternoon sun heating the granite.

Focus on solid cam placements under the roof for confidence in the crux.

The walk-off descent on the climber’s right is straightforward; no rappel required.

Watch for loose rock near the belay area and approach with care.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade reflects a crux that centers on a demanding move over a tight roof, requiring strong technique and power. While the rest of the climb maintains moderate difficulty on featured holds, the initial move pushes the grade into a steeper challenge. This route feels true to grade for climbers familiar with local San Bernardino trad lines and offers a good step up from lower 5.9 pitches.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack including cams up to 2.5 inches. The roof section demands secure protection placement and the belay anchors are shared with the adjacent route to the left.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
roof crux
arete
Big Bear Lake
San Bernardino Mountains