"Inside Straight challenges climbers with a compelling mix of chimney moves and sustained offwidth sections on Lumpy Ridge. This 5.9 single-pitch trad climb rewards focused technique and steady power, offering a rewarding alternative start to nearby classics with solid gear placements and breathtaking views."
Inside Straight offers a focused adventure for trad climbers eager to engage with a blend of technical chimney moves and powerful offwidth challenges. Perched on Lumpy Ridge within the scenic Estes Park Valley, this route cuts through an obvious left-facing corner just west of the Marginal Line. The climb opens with straightforward chimneying and layback sequences using solid face holds, inviting you into the flow of the rock with assured movement. As the route deepens, a more physically demanding offwidth section requires determined squeezing and stamping, demanding both strength and technique. Midway, subtle handholds peek out from the arete, providing a momentary option to bail or adjust, yet most climbers push onward, pressing right-side-in to reach a secure fist-sized crack. From here, one final 5.9 crux vaults you over a playful roof to arrive at a welcoming finger crack that ascends left, offering relief and rhythm.
This climb presents a compelling alternative start to the nearby Romulan Territory—the moves lack some of Marginal Line's technical fineness but compensate through sustained physicality that keeps your muscles engaged and your focus sharp. At 110 feet and a single pitch, Inside Straight provides a compact yet rewarding challenge that rewards climbers with a keen sense of accomplishment and quality rock.
Gear wise, the route calls for a full trad rack up to a #4 Camalot, with doubles advised above the #2 size to ensure security through the trickier sections. The rock quality is dependable, but tight offwidths mean protection placements require patience and an eye for subtle features. The climb sits within the expansive Bookmark area of Lumpy Ridge, known for its rugged character and dramatic views that stretch across Estes Park Valley. Expect a somewhat exposed, sun-facing wall that dries quickly during the warm season, making late spring through early fall the prime time to climb.
Access is straightforward: a short hike from the main trailhead drops you at the base in roughly 15-20 minutes over firm, well-marked paths that wind through pine and spruce groves, their needles cushioning footsteps and softening the ambient sounds of wind and distant wildlife. The descent involves a single rappel or a careful downclimb along the established route, so bring suitable rappel gear and be mindful of loose rock in the exit zones.
Inside Straight blends raw exposure and technical challenges in a way that invites climbers to test their offwidth skills and endurance while soaking in the striking natural environment. Its approachable length and distinctive features make it an ideal objective whether you’re stepping up from easier climbs or looking to sharpen specific crack techniques in one memorable pitch.
The offwidth sections require careful attention to gear placement and efficient breathing to avoid burnout. Loose blocks can be present near the top roof exit; test all holds before weighting them and watch footing on the descent, where loose rock and exposure increase risk.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun, especially in summer when the wall heats up quickly.
Brush the hand and foot holds before climbing to ensure clean friction on rock surfaces.
Practice offwidth techniques beforehand; this climb demands effective body positioning and stamina.
Bring a long sling or extender for tricky placements in the wider cracks to reduce rope drag.
Carry a complete trad rack up to a #4 Camalot, with doubles recommended above the #2 size for added confidence through the offwidth and crux areas. Expect to place protection in fissures that sometimes require creative placements due to the route’s mix of cracks and arete features.
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