"A technically engaging 80-foot trad climb on Boulder’s iconic First Pinnacle, Inside South Face offers precise moves across flakes and seams with sparse protection. Ideal for confident leaders seeking a straightforward but focused challenge in The Amphitheater."
For climbers ready to step into the rugged charm of Boulder’s Flatirons, the Inside South Face of the First Pinnacle offers a compelling test where technical skill meets a touch of wild uncertainty. This single-pitch, 80-foot trad route sits within The Amphitheater, a distinct formation carved into Gregory Canyon, demanding focus and a deft touch on the rock. The climbing line tracks along chalk marks guiding you through a combination of flakes, edges, seams, and pockets that challenge your balance and route-finding without overwhelming complexity. Just past the midpoint, a short but committing left-leaning corner creates a natural resting point and forces careful body positioning before pushing straight up towards the summit anchors.
Protection is sparse in places, marking this route as impactful more for confident leaders than novices. The held spots require attention—tiny cams, tricams, and stoppers are essential to cover sections that offer only subtle placements, while a large-hands cam and longer slings come in handy for securing knobs farther up. The rock holds may test your steadiness, with some questionable grips you’ll want to skirt with precise footwork rather than brute force. Unlike routes that hand you a clear line, this one invites you to feel your way with trust in your technique.
Approach The Amphitheater via Gregory Canyon, a short hike from Boulder that winds through open forest and rocky outcrops, setting the mood with cool pine scents and distant murmurs of local wildlife. The approach trail is straightforward but uneven, which makes steady footwear a must. Once at the base, the south face’s chalked slant calls climbers who appreciate hands-on challenges, where the rock itself dares you to read it closely. This route’s southern exposure means afternoon light brightens key features but can also heat the rock on warmer days, so plan your climb for early morning or late afternoon in the spring and fall for the best conditions.
From the top, you can scramble west and then north down the ridge—an off-route exit demanding sure-footedness—or choose to rappel using one of the established fixed anchors, which are reliably set but should always be checked before committing. Given that the route sits on a steep face in a popular climbing area, you’ll share the space with other adventurers, but the line’s technical demands narrow the field to those ready for a test with little margin for error.
If your style leans towards confident trad leads and you’re comfortable reading rock with limited protection, this route showcases Flatirons climbing with honest moves that reward focus and finesse. For those less inclined to lead on tougher gear, top-roping is a solid way to experience the feel of the line’s nuances without the added pressure of sparse protection. Either way, the Inside South Face holds a distinct place in Boulder’s climbing scene—a reminder that not every ascent offers easy ground, but each carries a story formed by your grip, balance, and will to push upward.
Spotty protection means falls could be long and consequence heavier than the grade suggests. Holds may feel questionable at times—approach with confidence but cautious gear management. The descent scramble requires care to avoid slips on loose rock.
Best climbed early morning or late afternoon to avoid heated rock.
Check all fixed anchors before rappelling; weather can loosen some.
Approach trail is uneven; wear sturdy footwear and watch footing.
Top-rope setup is recommended for climbers not comfortable leading 5.9 R.
Bring a rack including small to medium tricams, a selection of stoppers, a large-hands cam, and several long slings for knob slinging. Protection is limited in places, so gear placements require patience and precision.
Upload your photos of Inside South Face (1st Pinnacle) and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.