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Innominate II at Suicide Rock: Bold Friction Trad Climbing in the San Jacintos

Idyllwild, California United States
friction slab
runout
small cams
short pitch
granite slab
exposed
high desert
technical footwork
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Innominate II
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Innominate II presents a terse, clean friction climb on Suicide Rock’s North Face—perfect for climbers seeking a runout slab challenge. With limited protection and a sharp focus on footwork, it’s a demanding 60-foot test of balance and nerve in the iconic San Jacintos."

Innominate II at Suicide Rock: Bold Friction Trad Climbing in the San Jacintos

Innominate II is a sharp introduction to friction climbing on the storied North Face of Suicide Rock in California’s San Jacinto range. This single-pitch route demands focused footwork on a slab of granite that stretches 60 feet, rewarding those who embrace its technical subtlety rather than brute strength or plentiful gear. Situated on the rock’s far right flank, the route offers a clean, runout experience that tests balance and nerve more than sustained crimping. The granite’s smooth surface invites confident smearing, where the slightest edge or texture could mean the difference between secure movement and a slip. Protection is sparse, with only a few small placements that offer minimal safety—a fact that reinforces the need for commitment and calculated moves. Though the rating of 5.8 R might suggest moderate difficulty, the route’s runout nature imbues it with a seriousness that isn’t common in the grade. The climb invites experienced trad climbers who are comfortable managing risk and seeking a quiet, focused challenge away from the busier routes of nearby Tahquitz Rock.

Approach to the North Face starts from the established Suicide Rock parking area, with the trail weaving through dry chaparral and rock-studded terrain. The path is straightforward but demands attention, especially during late spring to fall when temperatures soar and the sun bakes the granite. Climbers should arrive early to find shade and avoid the midday heat that intensifies on the exposed face. The proximity to popular Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks means that even this quieter route benefits from maintained trails and clear access points. As you step onto the rock, you’ll feel the granite’s texture beneath your shoes—a mix of coarse patches and nearly polished slabs inviting a delicate dance of balance.

While Innominate II’s brevity might surprise newcomers, the mental challenge lies in trusting your feet and holding moves with minimal rests. The route’s clean lines make protection placements rare, emphasizing a smart, conservative approach to gear. Small cams and nuts are sufficient but need careful placement in subtle cracks or horizontal features. This makes gear choice critical: overpacking slows movement, while under-placing increases risk.

Safety on Innominate II hinges on understanding the runout nature of the climb—falling here is not without consequence. Climbers should be proficient in placing small pro and comfortable on slab terrain that lacks obvious handholds. The descent is straightforward; a short rappel or easy downclimb leads back to the base, allowing for a quick turnaround or linking with other routes in the area. Taken together, Innominate II provides a focused experience that blends tactical friction climbing with the austere beauty of the San Jacinto wilderness.

This route suits climbers seeking skill refinement in slab movement and gear placement, especially those who want a quieter alternative to the busier Tahquitz crags. Its combination of clean lines, sparse pro, and exposed footwork honed on granite creates a memorable challenge that sharpens both mind and muscle.

Climber Safety

Protection is minimal and consists mostly of small gear placements on thin cracks. The route’s runout sections require solid slab climbing technique and commitment to avoid dangerous falls. Ensure your anchors are secure as the descent involves a rappel or careful downclimb on exposed terrain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense midday heat and gain shade on the face.

Bring climbing shoes with sticky rubber optimized for slab friction.

Practice small cam placements if you’re less familiar with delicate protection.

Beware of the runout sections—fall potential requires confidence in footwork and gear placement.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating masks the subtle challenge of this route. Although physically moderate, the sparse protection and runout nature sharply raise the mental demand. Compared to other nearby routes, it feels stiffer because mistakes on slab don’t come cheap. Expect to rely heavily on precise foot placements and a calm head for risk management.

Gear Requirements

Minimal rack needed: a few small cams and nuts suffice due to sparse protection options. Focus on precise placements in thin cracks and shallow horizontal breaks. Overprotection can disrupt flow on the friction slab.

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Tags

friction slab
runout
small cams
short pitch
granite slab
exposed
high desert
technical footwork