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Infestation: Boulder Canyon's Subtle Challenge

Boulder, Colorado United States
bolt ladder
finger crack
sunny wall
single pitch
beginner trad
Boulder Canyon
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Infestation
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Infestation in Boulder Canyon offers a focused, single-pitch climb blending sport bolts with technical trad placements. Its manageable length and solid rock make it an inviting challenge for climbers seeking precision and control."

Infestation: Boulder Canyon's Subtle Challenge

The climb known as Infestation greets you with a quiet intensity right at the edge of Boulder Canyon’s rugged contours. Named after the two vigilant wasps guarding the narrow crack at the start, this route offers a blend of trad and sport climbing that demands steady focus amidst a setting where nature shapes every move. From the initial stance inside a flared dihedral, your eyes lock onto five well-spaced bolts threading a vertical path, each pause punctuated by the faint scent of pine from a tiny bush clinging to the rock just off the line. The rock itself is firm, etched with the subtle wear that marks a climb regularly visited but never crowded.

At 60 feet, this pitch has enough length to engage you fully yet fits neatly into a single quick, athletic push. Early on, a finger-sized cam placement sits just before the first bolt, offering a security point for climbers who prefer a cautious approach, while a red Alien sized piece slots snugly after the second bolt. These pieces add a layer of protection on a route that’s mostly bolt ladder but still requires respect for its occasionally delicate spots.

Boulder Canyon’s Bihedral Area breathes outdoor adventure with every gust of mountain air; you’ll find that the angle of the wall catches sunlight for much of the day, warming the rock to a touch comfortable for hands and feet. The approach demands modest effort, a short hike through pine-scented paths that transition swiftly from the parking area to the base of the climb, making it accessible for a morning ascent or a focused afternoon session. The anchor shares a station with Monte Carlo, to the right—a secure, familiar bailout point maintained with care.

Whether you're a trad climber venturing into sport routes or a sport enthusiast brushing up on gear placements, Infestation offers a route that balances straightforward movement with tactical decisions about protection. It’s a solid climb to test finger strength and mental steadiness without straying far from the amenities and comfort of Boulder’s thriving climbing community. Prepare to meet the rock on its terms: stable, precise, and quietly demanding.

Before you tie in, take a moment to appreciate the setting: the slow rustling of the pine needles, the distant silhouette of mountain ridges, and the subtle presence of wasps that gave the route its name—nature’s own sentinels marking a route that asks for attention and respect. Plan your gear, hydrate well, and aim to climb when the sun’s warmth softens the stone, ensuring your fingertips find sure purchase. Descending is straightforward via rappel using the shared anchor, but mindful steps on slick or loose terrain protect your exit as much as your climb.

Infestation stands as a compact but rich experience in one of Boulder’s most approachable yet captivating climbing areas, inviting you to engage with both rock and environment in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Watch for the small pine bush near the start that can distract attention; gear placements just before and after the bolts require careful assessment. Though the anchor is secure, approach and descent paths can present loose rock patches—move deliberately during approach and rappel.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy warm sun on the wall throughout the climb.

Bring finger-sized cams and a red Alien for supplemental gear placements.

Approach is a short, well-marked hike from Boulder Canyon’s main parking area.

Use the shared anchor with Monte Carlo for a confident and safe descent rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, Infestation presents a solid moderate experience with a few technical edges given the mix of bolts and gear placements. The grade feels true, with a small crux around the second bolt that challenges steady footwork and finger strength. Compared with other Bihedral Area climbs, it ranks as accessible but requires attention to protection details.

Gear Requirements

Five bolts anchor this route, with added protection recommended including a finger-sized cam before the first bolt and a red Alien placed after the second bolt. The anchor shares the same station as the nearby Monte Carlo route, maintained and safe.

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Tags

bolt ladder
finger crack
sunny wall
single pitch
beginner trad
Boulder Canyon