"Indian Paintbrush offers a 65-foot trad climb on classic water-hardened sandstone with versatile start options from mellow 5.8 to an intense 5.12 boulder problem. Set in Upper Foothill near Ojai, it blends technical slab moves with secure pro and sweeping canyon views."
Indian Paintbrush offers an accessible yet engaging trad climbing experience set against the warm, sun-splashed sandstone of Upper Foothill near Ojai, California. This 65-foot route is a perfect introduction to thin slab climbing with a range of starting options to suit different skill levels and appetite for challenge. Approaching the wall, you’re greeted by a compact formation that basks in the afternoon light, its water-polished surface ready to test footwork and finesse.
For those looking to push their limits, the Boulder Problem Start presents a demanding 5.12 crux featuring micro edges that require precise balance on superbly solid rock. This line leads directly to the first solid pro placement behind a narrow rib—an inviting spot for cam placement that marks the beginning of your protection. Alternatively, climbers seeking a safer entry can opt for one of the two 5.8 variations: Wandering Start and Right Side Direct. Wandering Start begins just to the right of the boulder problem, encouraging a low mantle onto a shelf and a careful traverse left to the rib. Right Side Direct pitches straight upwards through an unprotected lower face, rewarding confident climbers with pure face climbing.
Above, the route unfolds into thin, exposed moves at 5.8 difficulty with well-placed pro below the feet, offering both a mental and physical test. The exposure increases as you ascend, opening the view and inviting a moment to breathe in the surrounding canyon’s quiet majesty and the eastern expanse of Ojai’s landscape.
Upon reaching the summit, two half-inch bolts serve as secure anchors, making top-roping straightforward for parties looking to practice or scout the line. The descent requires a careful retreat back down the formation; scrambling off to the right provides the cleanest and safest route with manageable terrain.
Protection is straightforward: a single rack of cams from #0.75 to #4 covers the necessary placements with solid, water-hardened sandstone to accept gear confidently. Due to the slabby nature and thin cracks, precise pro placement and smooth footwork are essential for both safety and efficiency.
Indian Paintbrush's setting within Upper Foothill's Hideout area offers a quiet, approachable climbing environment that combines the stillness of nature with the practical advantages of proximity to Hwy 33 and Ojai. The route’s moderate length makes it ideal for a half-day climbing adventure, and its clear lines appeal to trad climbers who appreciate slab technique without overwhelming exposure or commitment.
Plan your ascent for morning or late afternoon to avoid the high sun directly on the slab, which can make friction inconsistent during the heat of midday. Wear sticky climbing shoes to maximize grip on the thin edges and bring plenty of water—Ojai’s dry climate means hydration is critical even during cooler seasons.
Whether you’re working the Boulder Problem for a test of power or cruising a 5.8 variation, Indian Paintbrush delivers an enjoyable, thoughtful climb with a scenic payoff. It’s a solid pick for those who want to mix technical slab climbing with reliable protection and friendly access in a stunning California foothill setting.
Thin, exposed slab sections require deliberate foot placements; the water-hardened sandstone can be slick if wet or dusty. Be mindful that the Right Side Direct variation lacks protection low down, requiring confident climbing above minimal gear.
Approach via an obvious trail on the right side of the formation, a brief 3rd class scramble.
Morning or late afternoon climbs are ideal to avoid slick friction from direct midday sun.
Sticky climbing shoes improve hold on thin foot edges along the slab.
Carry sufficient water and sun protection as the area is exposed and dry, especially in summer.
A standard trad rack with single cams from #0.75 through #4 is essential to protect the line effectively. The first pro comes behind a rib—placing cams carefully on this water-polished sandstone will provide confident placements on thin cracks.
Upload your photos of Indian Paintbrush and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.