"Incisor on McQuirks Mountain offers a crisp 150-foot trad climb centered around a unique tooth-shaped block that adds intrigue and variety to this straightforward route. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a solid single-pitch with secure anchors and manageable protection."
Incisor offers an accessible yet engaging trad climbing experience on McQuirks Mountain, sitting within The Green Zone of New Brunswick. This single-pitch route rises sharply over 150 feet, challenging climbers to navigate a distinctive tooth-shaped block partway up—an unusual feature that demands both observation and lateral movement. From the base, this block isn’t immediately obvious, so precise route-finding is essential to avoid unnecessary detours. Once you move left around the block, the terrain opens to a clear path leading up to a broad ledge crowned by a short headwall. This section rewards steady footwork and solid protection skills before reaching a bolted rappel station, which offers a safe and straightforward descent. For those feeling ambitious, continuing past the rap station to the top tree anchor extends the climb slightly, providing an added sense of accomplishment.
The route’s moderate 5.6 rating reflects friendly climbing, but don’t mistake this for ease; the unique features and gear requirements call for attentiveness and basic trad proficiency. Protection ranges from small to large cams, up to 3 inches, offering ample opportunities to place gear in varied cracks and face features. The bolted rappel station simplifies retreat, making this route a fitting choice for trad climbers looking to sharpen their skills on natural rock without committing to a multi-pitch adventure.
McQuirks Mountain is a quiet slice of wilderness where the climb engages with the landscape’s raw edges. Pine and fir trees frame the base, while occasional breezes carry the sounds of nature’s stirring, giving a grounded feeling amidst the rock. Access to the climb is straightforward, making Incisor a practical choice for a half-day outing or as a warm-up for longer routes nearby. Whether you’re building trad confidence or just want to experience a distinct feature on New Brunswick’s rock, Incisor holds steady as a rewarding climb with enough character to stay memorable.
Though the rappel station is bolted and secure, the route above the ledge includes a short headwall with exposure. Careful gear placement and steady stance near the top are essential to avoid slips. Approach conditions can be slippery after rain, so timing your trip to dry weather is advisable.
The tooth-shaped block is subtle—look carefully to the left after starting to find the best line.
Wear stiff-soled climbing shoes for edging on the headwall’s short technical moves.
Hydrate well before your climb; the approach involves a steady uphill hike through mixed forest terrain.
Mid to late morning offers ideal conditions with sunlight hitting the climb but avoiding intense heat.
Bring a standard trad rack from micro cams up to 3 inches to cover the varied crack sizes. The route’s protection placements require thoughtful gear placement around the tooth-shaped block and the upper headwall. A quickdraw or two can aid clipping at the bolted rappel station.
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