"In the Dark offers a concise but compelling trad climb on Yosemite’s Dark Side Dome, blending solid knobs with careful protection and an approachable 5.8- rating. Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen technique amid Tuolumne’s alpine scenery."
In the heart of Yosemite's Tuolumne Meadows, the climbing route known as In the Dark offers a striking blend of solid traditional climbing and subtle mysteries etched in clean granite. This single-pitch, 90-foot climb begins on a broad ledge, inviting climbers with a reassuring platform underfoot before leading up and over an accessible overhang. As you ascend, your fingers find well-formed knobs that provide confident holds, setting a rhythm that eases the initial moves. The protection is thoughtfully placed with five fresh ASCA bolts, blending traditional gear requirements with the security that bolted protection offers.
At the heart of the route lies a small bulge that challenges with a brief shift in technique and effort, demanding precise footwork and a steady core. Beyond this crux, the climb leans into an easier diagonal traverse to the left, moving towards the bolted belay at Who's the Bosch anchor. Although the final moves above the last bolt travel through somewhat dirtier rock, the route remains manageable with cautious foot placements.
The granite of Dark Side Dome is known for its clean, sound rock, and In the Dark holds true—solid knobs and reliable protection make the ascent steady yet gratifying. The setting within Tuolumne Meadows offers more than just climbing; the surrounding area hums with the quiet dignity of national park wilderness. Approaching the route, the trail is straightforward and well-marked, but timing is crucial—early starts help avoid the heat of midday sun on the south-facing wall, and seasons from late spring to early fall offer the best conditions, minimizing snow and moisture on the rock.
Climbing In the Dark requires standard traditional gear supplemented by locking carabiners and draws for the bolts. The rappel anchor, bolted and secure, allows a one-rope (60 meter) descent, making retreat simple and safe. Though the route demands attention to placements and footwork, its accessible grade of 5.8- invites intermediate climbers ready to push their limits with some exposure and technical nuance.
For those seeking a route that tests both precision and confidence without overwhelming commitment, In the Dark stands out in Yosemite’s expansive climbing inventory. The route’s setting in the Daff Area of the Dark Side Dome grants climbers the chance to mix adventurous climbing with time to enjoy Tuolumne’s sweeping vistas, alpine air, and crisp atmosphere. Whether soloing in the approach or grouping with friends, preparation means packing enough water, choosing firm, sticky shoes, and planning your day around cooler temperatures and off-peak climbing hours.
In all, In the Dark offers a compact dose of Yosemite trad climbing that balances the excitement of bolts and natural protection with the serenity of open meadow views. This climb encourages attentive movement and respect for the rock’s subtle demands, crafting a memorable experience that rewards both focus and flow.
The section above the last bolt can accumulate dirt and loose debris—stay aware of footing to avoid slips. The rappel requires a full 60-meter rope; double-check anchor reliability before descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun heating the rock.
Sticky climbing shoes improve grip on the less featured knobs.
Check weather forecasts as spring runoff can keep approach trails damp.
Use a 60m rope for a single rappel off the bolted anchor.
Five new ASCA bolts secure the line alongside traditional placements. A bolted belay/rappel anchor at the top allows for a straightforward one-rope descent. Bring traditional rack sized for medium knobs and standard alpine trad gear.
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