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In A Strange Land at Babylon Crag: A Classic Donner Summit Trad Climb

Truckee, California United States
hand crack
bulges
trad gear
single pitch
granite
Donner Summit
Length: 160 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
In A Strange Land
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"In A Strange Land is a gritty 5.8 traditional climb at Babylon Crag near Donner Summit, featuring a rugged hand crack that guides you past bulges toward the top of All American Hand Crack. This single-pitch offers a focused experience on solid granite, making it a great choice for hands-on crack climbing in a compact package."

In A Strange Land at Babylon Crag: A Classic Donner Summit Trad Climb

In A Strange Land invites climbers to engage with one of the more rugged corners of the Boreal Area near Donner Summit. This 160-foot single-pitch traditional climb traces a jagged corner that weaves around bulges and broken rock faces, offering a gritty and tactile challenge on solid granite. Though it may lack the polished lines some seek, the climb's standout feature is a clean, splitter hand crack that serves as a reliable lifeline up the wall. This crack channels climbers toward the top of the All American Hand Crack route, making it a smart choice for those looking to access the ridge more smoothly than scrambling or harder aid might allow.

The approach to this climb is straightforward, set within the greater Babylon Crag area, an accessible climbing zone just a short distance off I-80. The terrain underfoot is a blend of loose scree and stable granite slabs, demanding steady footwork with a firm hiking shoe or light approach shoe. While the route itself stays rooted in classic trad climbing style, protection placements range from nuts to cams as large as size #2, requiring climbers to bring a diverse rack suitable for locks and fissures along the crack and bulges.

The rock wears a worn, weathered texture, with discreet pockets and edges that reward thoughtful movement rather than brute strength. Climbers will feel the character of the route in each move—a moment where the route opens for a hand jam, followed by a tricky bulge that leans just enough to test balance and gear trust. While this line does not aspire to be the crag’s most iconic, it delivers a solid afternoon of varied climbing in a quiet section of the crag, perfect for those refining their crack technique or scouting the eastern Sierra’s alpine rock scene.

For any outing here, timing is key. Early mornings or late afternoons in spring through fall offer comfortable conditions, as the route’s northeast-facing wall catches filtered sunlight and shade, keeping temperatures moderate. Hydration remains essential, but the altitude—just over 7,200 feet—means climbers should prepare for thin air and rapidly changing weather, especially in shoulder seasons.

Access to Babylon Crag is just off Donner Pass, with parking available near Boreal Ski Area. From the lot, it’s a brief 10 to 15-minute hike over well-marked trails that pass through sparse conifers and dry, rocky slopes. Bringing a topo or GPS device is recommended as some of the informal paths can be loose or confusing, but the climb’s proximity to the highway makes it a convenient choice for a half-day session or a training day for longer Sierra climbs.

Whether you’re stepping up to this route as a warm-up or as a deliberate objective, In A Strange Land offers a grounded experience that balances technical crack climbing with a direct, no-frills approach to the rock. Consider it a practical stop in the varied climbing playground of the Donner Summit corridor, one that lends itself well to building confidence in traditional gear placements and movement around natural bulges. The climb holds value not for flash but for solid, earnest climbing in a wild yet accessible setting.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock around the bulges and broken sections. Double-check placements in the splitter crack, especially under varying load, as some nuts may feel marginal. Approach trail has loose scree—careful footwork is essential to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the northeast-facing wall.

Wear sturdy approach shoes for loose trail sections and talus fields.

Be ready for thin air at 7,200 feet—hydrate well before and during your climb.

Use nuts and cams effectively—some placements require finesse around bulges.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels fairly accurate with no unexpected crimps, though some may find the bulging corner and off-width style crack slightly more strenuous than the grade suggests. It’s a solid moderate route that rewards steady protection and good crack technique. Compared to other local climbs, it leans more on route-finding and placement skill than pure power.

Gear Requirements

Prepare a full trad rack with nuts and cams up to size #2 to protect the splitter hand crack and bulging sections. Bring gear for awkward placements around corners and keep extra slings handy for extending gear on the bulges.

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Tags

hand crack
bulges
trad gear
single pitch
granite
Donner Summit