HomeClimbingImpending Doom

Impending Doom: Trad Climb on Main Face, Avalon Peninsula

Avalon, Canada
hanging dihedral
loose rock
single pitch
trad gear heavy
overhung slot
grassy ledge
scramble top out
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Impending Doom
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Impending Doom offers a gritty 5.9 Trad challenge on Newfoundland’s blasted Main Face. This single pitch demands steady protects skills amid loose holds and a hanging corner, rewarding climbers with wild coastal views and raw climbing vibes."

Impending Doom: Trad Climb on Main Face, Avalon Peninsula

Impending Doom rises from the rugged stretch of Main Face on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula, daring climbers to confront a hanging dihedral etched into the blasted granite. The route stands out sharply against an otherwise sparse and weather-beaten face, offering a one-pitch shot at a 5.9 Trad climb with a mix of engaging moves and cautious negotiation of rock that tests your judgment as much as your technique. Starting from a distinctive cube-shaped boulder, you’ll edge up an easy slab, muscles warming against the steady incline as the wall opens into the hanging corner ahead. Here, the climbing sharpens: the corner challenges you with an awkward crux—finger holds that feel less like friends and more like old acquaintances ready to let go under pressure. Loose rock is an ever-present reminder; the holds once snapped on this pitch underline the route’s raw, untamed character.

Beyond the crux, the handholds grow less trustworthy, with gravelly patches demanding careful footwork as you reach a grassy ledge, where nature briefly softens the vertical assault. But the real test looms above—a blocky, overhung slot forces a grovel that demands commitment and careful balance. The final scramble skirts slippery shrubs, where caution and staying on belay become essential, guarding against an untimely slip. Top out here, rewarded by wild, wind-sculpted views that only this remote section of the Avalon coast can offer.

This climb has clearly seen minimal cleaning since its first ascent, and the rock condition keeps the route raw, sharp-edged. Cleaning the loose holds and installing a rappel anchor at two-thirds height would transform it into a safer, more welcoming challenge, but for now, Impending Doom requires a steady head and trust in your placements. Protection ranges from standard cams up to three inches, with double blue Mastercams a smart investment—placements can be tricky amid the blocky, unstable features. Ballnuts add security in tight spots, while a solid tree anchor awaits you at the top for a safe descent or rappel.

Accessing the climb involves trekking into the exposed flank of Main Face, where the terrain mixes loose rock and hardy vegetation. The approach demands focused footing and lookout for shifting ground underfoot. In spring and fall, the climb benefits from cooler temperatures and less glare, while summer sun can bake the rock, making tricky holds slick. Early starts avoid afternoon winds and offer more stable conditions.

Impending Doom isn't just a physical test; it's a mental exercise in respecting the mountain’s shifting nature. This route invites climbers who appreciate raw adventure, blending solid moves on inspiring granite with the need for vigilance and well-planned gear management. Prepare carefully, move decisively, and savor the crisp ocean air punctuated by sea birds overhead, grounding you to the wild beauty of Newfoundland’s coast.

Climber Safety

Exercise heightened caution around loose holds—some key grips have broken off in the past. The finish requires scrambling over slick shrubs where a secure belay and careful foot placement are essential to avoid slips. Be prepared for uneven terrain on approach with loose scree and unstable footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon winds and slanting sun on the rock.

Double-check placements on loose holds and avoid trusting suspect flakes.

Wear footwear with sticky rubber to navigate the slippery shrubs at the top.

Consider bringing extra webbing for the sparse rappel anchor setup on trees.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade feels true but leans toward the stiffer side due to a technical awkward crux and unsteady holds that demand precise footwork and clean protection. The loose rock adds a mental layer, requiring confidence in gear placement. Climbers familiar with similar Newfoundland trad faces or coastal granite will find this route an authentic test of skill and nerves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack up to 3 inches, doubling blue Mastercams for secure placements in blocky sections. Ballnuts help anchor tricky spots. Use the tree anchor at the summit for your rappel or belay.

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Tags

hanging dihedral
loose rock
single pitch
trad gear heavy
overhung slot
grassy ledge
scramble top out