HomeClimbingImelda's New Shoes

Imelda's New Shoes

Twentynine Palms, California United States
thin crack
flared jams
liebacks
steep face
Joshua Tree
trad
technical
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Imelda's New Shoes
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Imelda's New Shoes offers a compact yet dynamic trad climb featuring a thin crack crux, flared jams, and steep liebacks. Ideal for climbers seeking varied crack technique set against the raw beauty of Joshua Tree’s Filipino Wall."

Imelda's New Shoes

Imelda's New Shoes offers a compelling day out for trad climbers looking to test their skills on diverse terrain in Joshua Tree National Park's Filipino Wall sector. From the moment you step onto the rock, you encounter a thin, technical crack that demands precise finger locks and confident footwork—its slender form challenging your approach and setting the tone for a route that rewards steady focus. As you ascend, the crack gives way to flared hand jams that feel almost alive, inviting you to engage with the rock’s texture in a tactile, rhythmic dance. The wall itself leans steeply, requiring commitment and balance, especially as you position yourself for liebacks higher up, where outstretched limbs push against solid rock, creating moments of controlled tension.

This one-pitch climb, rated 5.10a, is concise yet packed with variety, making it an excellent choice for climbers eager to sharpen crack technique while experiencing the distinctive Joshua Tree granite. The rock carries that familiar gritty warmth, offering secure friction but demanding smooth transitions between moves. The approach to Filipino Wall is manageable, dropping you into a quieter pocket of the park where desert brush picks its way between boulders and silhouettes of desert flora punctuate the horizon.

Climbers should bring a standard trad rack, as protection opportunities are straightforward but require awareness due to the thin nature of the initial crack. The route’s brief length does not diminish its intensity—every move counts, and the crux near the bottom means no room for hesitation. The climb enjoys morning sun, warming the rock early in the day and making for pleasant conditions, but afternoon attempts may expose climbers to heat layering from the exposed desert.

Whether you’re refining your crack climbing or chasing a solid 5.10 challenge within a serene yet rugged desert setting, Imelda's New Shoes provides an accessible and gratifying experience. This climb epitomizes Joshua Tree’s blend of technical grit and climbing charm, with a route that pushes your body and engages your focus from start to finish.

Climber Safety

The initial crack requires confident gear placements on thin sections; incomplete protection here increases runout risks. The steep face above demands secure footwork to avoid falls, and afternoon sun can quickly dehydrate climbers, so carry sufficient water.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in cooler morning temperatures and avoid afternoon desert heat.

Wear shoes with sensitive edging to manage both thin cracks and face holds.

Bring a full standard rack but focus on smaller sizes for the crux crack.

Use tape on fingers to protect against the abrasive granite during jams.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating here feels true to the technical demands, with the crux being a finger-intensive thin crack near the start. The grade challenges climbers with precise gear placements and body positioning, somewhat reminiscent of nearby Lost Horse Wall routes, but with a distinct focus on crack finesse.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers the protection needs here, with an emphasis on smaller cams for the thin initial crack. Secure placements are essential for the technical moves early on.

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Tags

thin crack
flared jams
liebacks
steep face
Joshua Tree
trad
technical