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Imaginary Voyage at The Warlock

Kernville, California United States
trad
crack climbing
chimney
face climb
multi-pitch
The Needles
granite
moderate
Length: 500 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Imaginary Voyage
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Imaginary Voyage delivers a balanced trad climb with four pitches of crack, dihedrals, and chimney climbing on The Warlock. It’s a well-protected moderate in the Needles, ideal for climbers seeking both technique and an immersive granite experience."

Imaginary Voyage at The Warlock

Imaginary Voyage carves a compelling path through The Warlock's rugged face in California’s iconic Needles region, offering four pitches of engaging trad climbing that balance technical variety with steady, straightforward movement. This 500-foot route starts with a solid, hand-crack pitch that invites climbers to establish rhythm and focus. Once the crack fades, a bolted face section challenges balance and precision, protected well enough to trust your placements with a standard rack. With a 60-meter rope, many climbers link these pitches, reaching a comfortable ledge that serves as an ideal belay spot before moving into the route’s rhythm.

The second pitch shifts focus to a left-facing dihedral, a feature demanding careful footwork and attention to body positioning to take full advantage of the natural hold progression. Climbers can opt to belay mid-way or push on up a crack system that leads to another solid ledge before facing the imposing chimney pitch. This steep chimney is a highlight of the climb—its angles demand power and technique, but experienced climbers may choose to skirt it via a feature-rich face section to the right, which still offers satisfying challenges.

The final pitch climbs past well-placed bolts on an exposed face leading directly to The Warlock’s summit block. Here, exposure swells with sweeping views of The Needles' towering granite spires and the vast Southern Sierra landscape stretching into the distance. The afternoon sun warms this southwest-facing wall, making the climb especially inviting on crisp days when warmth improves grip and comfort.

Imaginary Voyage stands out among Needles routes by offering a moderately challenging experience that is accessible yet rewarding—particularly on hot days when sun-lit granite enhances both visibility and morale. The rock quality is typical Needles granite: solid but demanding a respect for the occasional loose block in places where erosion has been more active. Expect a route that feels direct and purposeful without extraneous wandering, perfect for climbers aiming to sharpen traditional skills.

Beyond the climbing, approach and descent require attentiveness: the trail to The Warlock involves uneven terrain with loose gravel sections, demanding good footwear and a measured pace. Familiarity with the area’s weather patterns and water availability can mean the difference between a smooth day and a draining one; bring ample hydration and plan for an early start to avoid the midday heat or late afternoon thunderstorms common in this region.

Imaginary Voyage rewards the prepared climber with physical challenge and rich sensory experience—the feel of rough granite under fingertips, the whisper of wind weaving between spires, and the shifting light painting jagged shadows. For those seeking a moderate trad test with a practical yet exhilarating edge, this route offers a focused adventure in one of California’s most beloved granite playgrounds.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose blocks near the chimney and summit sections, especially after rain or freeze-thaw cycles. The ledges offer decent belay stances but remain alert for rockfall potential. The approach involves uneven terrain where slips can happen—good shoes and deliberate pacing are essential.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat; The Warlock’s southwest aspect heats up quickly.

Bring sturdy shoes with sticky rubber to handle varied crack and face terrain.

Hydrate well before and during the climb, as water sources are scarce nearby.

Scout the approach trail beforehand; footing can get loose and tricky after winter.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating on Imaginary Voyage feels approachable but not soft. The route provides a well-balanced mix of crack and face climbing with a consistent challenge. The chimney pitch adds a physical crux, especially for climbers less comfortable with overhead moves. Overall, the grade aligns well with similar moderate Needles routes, providing reassuring but stimulating difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack sufficient for all pitches. A 60-meter rope enables linking the first two pitches comfortably. Recommended gear sizes cover cams and nuts for cracks and face protection aids, though some bolted sections reduce gear demands in exposed face climbing.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
chimney
face climb
multi-pitch
The Needles
granite
moderate