Perched on the far right edge of the amphitheater at Parachute Rock, Illegal Smile offers a focused, one-pitch trad climb that blends technical crack work with subtle slab moves. The route divides the rock face by a massive boulder, presenting two distinct climbing zones: a slabby section to the left and the crack-filled amphitheater on the right, where Illegal Smile stakes its claim. Starting with solid, wide jams over the first 20 to 30 feet, the climb demands confident hand placements before a delicate step leftward around a bulge to access a clean finger crack. This finger crack, though it contests smaller stopper placements, welcomes a green Alien perfectly—its narrow width nudges the climber into thin hands territory as the crack transitions upward.

The climbing rhythm reminds seasoned climbers of the opening pitch of Pear Buttress at Lumpy, where thoughtful gear choices and steady movement pay off. After navigating past the finger crack’s challenging bulge, the route eases to the top, where a walk-off to the right provides a straightforward descent. With 80 feet of vertical ascent, the climb balances technical skill and approachable exposure, making it a rewarding goal for trad climbers who appreciate lines that test crack-jamming technique without demanding multi-pitch commitment.

Approaching the route, climbers will find themselves drawn into a landscape marked by rugged sandstone features, where the rock’s texture feels both solid and slightly worn by years of weather. The environment hums with the steady pulse of the wind and distant calls of native birds, creating just the right soundtrack for a day spent climbing. Given the route’s exposed finger crack, careful gear selection is crucial: hand-sized cams protect the lower section, while TCUs fit snugly into the crack’s thinner sections. Mid-range cams cover the upper reaches, ensuring a secure ascent with reliable placements when protection is most critical.

Conveniently close to South Platte and accessed via Rampart Range Road, Illegal Smile benefits from a short approach on mostly solid footing, allowing climbers to arrive fresh and ready. It’s a prime choice for those seeking an engaging trad outing without committing to extended time on the rock. The route’s moderate 5.8 grade feels genuine, with a crux section that demands precision rather than brute strength, offering a satisfying challenge that rewards well-practiced crack technique. Seasonally, late spring through early fall is ideal, when the sandstone dries quickly, and temperatures are moderate. Morning climbs provide cooler conditions and shade from the south-facing amphitheater walls, enhancing comfort and grip.

For climbers planning their day, wear sticky-soled shoes designed for crack climbing, bring a rack focused on hand to mid-size cams, and consider a light helmet to handle occasional falling debris or loose flakes. Hydration is key here: the wind can dry you quicker than expected, so carry ample water.

Illegal Smile stands as a vivid introduction to Rampart Range’s crack climbing style—accessible, direct, and memorable for the quality gear placements and steady flow it demands. Whether you’re honing your crack skills or simply searching for a climb that pairs solid rock with a sense of place, this route delivers clear, reliable fun within striking distance of Denver’s climbing hubs.