"Ignominity challenges climbers with steep dihedrals and technical moves across three pitches on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge. A balanced trad route that rewards steady footwork and sound gear placements amid scenic Colorado granite."
Ignominity offers a compact but thrilling trad climb tucked along the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon, a site famed for its bold lines and rugged beauty. From the first step on this route, climbers face a compelling blend of steep dihedrals and technical face moves, demanding both focus and strength. The approach begins near the right-facing dihedral just left of the Long John Wall, a clear marker for those familiar with Eldo’s granite walls.
Pitch one invites you to flow up an approachable dihedral before navigating around a small roof and a sturdy tree, then stepping left onto a face that tests balance and holds with solid 5.8 moves to a comfortable tree belay. This opening stretch acts as a warm-up, but pay attention to footwork here, especially when transitioning around the roof.
Pitch two is where Ignominity picks up intensity. The climbing heads straight up an easy dihedral before hitting the first real challenge: a bulging section demanding a confident lieback on thin holds. After a short rest, the route cranks up to a sustained steep crux; juggy but relentless, requiring careful lock-off strength and precise foot placements to move past a steep bulge. This pitch concludes on a large ledge that offers a welcome chance to shake out and prepare for the final pitch.
The third pitch moves upward and left through a slot that narrows and tests your balance. Standing up onto a sloped ledge requires focus as the big jugs above progress into a thin crack system where medium cams protect well. Strategic foot jams here help reach the holds that mark the end of the hardest moves. The final traverse left along a horizontal crack leads to a roomy belay ledge with clear views—a satisfying end to the climbing sequence.
Descending Ignominity involves one short pitch past the final belay, where you can rappel off a tree with slings using a 50m rope. For those seeking an alternative, the popular “Sooberb rappel” awaits, dropping you down via two bolted anchors, followed by a straightforward walk-off or an optional third rap off a slung tree. This descent sequence allows relaxed exit options depending on rope length and comfort.
For protection, the route calls for a rack up to a #3 Camalot, with a #4 handy for added security on all pitches. The rock holds gear placements well, and a single 50m rope serves perfectly for climbing and descent. With 122 votes backing an average 2.7-star rating, Ignominity offers slightly less frequented challenges than some classics in Eldorado but rewards those who seek technical face climbing with solid protection and scenic surroundings.
Eldorado Canyon itself stretches out beneath your feet, the stone warmed by the Colorado sun and fringed with ponderosa pines rustling in the canyon breeze. The crux moves demand full engagement, yet the route’s thoughtful protection and moderate length make it accessible to climbers comfortable at 5.9. Timing your climb to hit the wall either mid-morning or late afternoon ensures you avoid the strongest sun while catching cooling shadows, especially in warmer months. The walk-in trails leading to West Ridge are well-marked but rugged, so a sturdy pair of boots and awareness of your timing will keep your adventure smooth.
Ignominity strikes a rewarding balance between challenge and manageability. It summons the spirit of Eldorado’s classic trad lines with enough variety to keep you alert: compact pitches, playful cracks, and bold moves. Whether you’re looking to sharpen crack climbing or simply add a lesser-traveled route to your Eldorado list, Ignominity invites a climb full of movement, mindfulness, and mountain air.
Watch for loose rock near the belay trees and be cautious on the sloping ledges, especially during descent. The approach trail can be slick in wet weather, so plan accordingly. Ensure your gear is solidly placed on the steep bulge to avoid falls during the crux pitch.
Start early or late in the day to avoid strong sun on the West Ridge wall.
Wear sturdy approach shoes for the steep, uneven trail leading to the base.
Double-check your rope length to ensure smooth rappels using the tree anchors or Sooberb rappel.
Bring extra slings for trees and anchors as backups.
Gear up with a full rack to #3 Camalot plus an optional #4 for added safety. A single 50m rope is enough for both ascent and rappel. Protection placements are solid though some cams require careful sizing and placement in the thinner cracks.
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