"A striking single-pitch trad climb in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, this route challenges you with finger- and hand-jams culminating in a tough roof. Perfect for climbers seeking technical crack work and solid protection in a quiet Colorado setting."
Ascending the rugged face of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, “If You Don't Leave Me, I'll Find Someone Who Will” offers a compelling challenge for trad climbers eager to test their crack skills. This route, stretching 50 feet along a bold finger- and hand-crack, immediately welcomes you with its commitment and texture. The climb pushes upward through a defining roof feature, laying out an initial 5.9 rating for those who choose the direct line. For climbers seeking an extra bite, a rightward traverse across an obvious flake leads to a sharp crux, nudging the difficulty into the mid-5.10s with its flared jams and small footholds. This variation demands precise footwork and careful protection placements, rewarding those comfortable with technical crack climbing.
The route’s sharp geometry and exposed crack provide a tactile experience where your hands and feet negotiate the rock’s natural contours. The roof stands as both obstacle and gateway, daring adventurers to either power through or step sideways with finesse. The perfect #0.75 Camalot cam fits snugly within the traverse section, a critical piece for safeguarding the steeper moves right of the roof, while a standard rack laden with smaller cams and stoppers will see you prepared for the route’s core challenges.
Located near Lyons, Colorado, this climb lies within the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon—a setting shaped by dramatic cliff faces and the persistent flow of the St. Vrain River below. The canyon’s limestone slabs echo the sounds of rushing water and whisper through pine and juniper groves that scatter across the approach trail. The approach is straightforward, offering climbers a brief but vivid introduction to Colorado’s front-range climbing off the beaten path.
Expect a compact yet engaging experience well suited for a single pitch. The rock quality and protection opportunities make it a reliable choice for traditional climbers looking for moderate difficulty with a technical edge. Hand-sized cams are recommended not only to guard the belay stance but also to secure comfort through the route’s critical crux movements.
To maximize your outing, aim for mid-morning to early afternoon climbs when the sun strikes the east-facing wall, warming the rock without baking it. Late spring through early fall provides the best seasonal window with stable weather and manageable river levels. Footwear with sticky rubber and good sensitivity will enhance your contact on the subtle footholds, and carrying sufficient water is essential as shade is intermittent around the route.
This climb invites an active dialogue with the rock—a mix of patience, power, and calculated trust in your gear. Each move along the crack etches a rhythm, a reminder that climbing here is as much about reading the stone’s language as it is about strength and technique. With thoughtful preparation and respect for the line’s nuances, this route offers an approachable yet richly rewarding trad experience in one of Colorado’s quieter canyon outings.
Be mindful of the flared jams in the traverse; these require careful body positioning to avoid falls. Protection can be tricky in these sections, so place your #0.75 Camalot carefully and confirm all placements before committing. Approach trail crosses intermittent loose rock—wear sturdy footwear and stay alert.
Approach via well-marked trail through forested foothills; allow 20 minutes from parking.
Carry a full rack up to medium cams, especially small sizes for flared jams.
Climb mid-morning for direct sunlight warming the east-facing wall; avoid afternoons when heat peaks.
Footwear with sticky rubber improves grip on small footholds and flared cracks.
Standard trad rack recommended with an emphasis on smaller cams and small to medium stoppers. Hand-sized cams, particularly a #0.75 Camalot, are key for protecting the traverse and belay anchor.
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