"Idly I De-Ice presents a compelling single-pitch trad climb on Dinosaur Mountain’s North Ridge. Featuring steady jams, reliable hand-sized placements, and a distinct overhanging handcrack crux, this route blends moderate challenge with solid protection in Colorado’s iconic Flatirons."
Idly I De-Ice offers a classic single-pitch trad climb that wraps you in the rugged character of Dinosaur Mountain’s North Ridge, just outside Boulder, Colorado. The route stakes its claim with moderate jugs and edges, gradually building up to a true test through a slightly overhanging handcrack that lives within a right-facing dihedral. The climb’s approach feels straightforward but demands focus as you transition from easy jams and ledges into the more technical crux near the top. This crack alters its size and rhythm briefly, pushing your hand-cam placements and body positioning to find the best holds before topping out.
The line rewards precision and calm with solid jammed hands and fingers, which offer secure gear placements primarily for hand-sized cams and a few adjustments above or below that range. As you reach the summit, there’s a sturdy tree anchor a short scramble to the right, outfitted with a sling and biner that offer a controlled rappel back to the base. This descent option adds convenience, allowing you to avoid a longer hike down the ridge.
Set against the backdrop of the iconic Flatirons area, this climb welcomes experienced trad climbers who appreciate moderate challenges without excessive stakes. The rock quality and protection opportunities make it a reliable choice for refining trad skills under Colorado’s expansive blue sky. The microcosm of movement from jams to a subtle overhang sums up what makes the North Ridge a solid climb—accessible yet technically satisfying.
Prepare to bring a focused rack—hand sizes dominate, so prioritize cams that fit snugly in the crack’s subtle shifts—and steady your breathing to engage the crux confidently. The moderate grade (5.9) feels fair but don’t underestimate the interplay between crack sizes and placements at the top, where the true puzzle awaits. Timing your climb for morning or early afternoon will provide ideal sun exposure and stable rock temperatures, especially valuable during cooler seasons.
For those visiting Boulder aiming to scrape the dust off their trad technique or experience a classic route in a stunning mountain environment, Idly I De-Ice delivers both approachable climbing and an invigorating slice of Colorado’s climbing heritage.
Watch for the overhanging corner’s trickier placements—hand cams are crucial here, and loose gear can raise risk. The tree anchor descent is secure but ensure your rappel setup is tidy to avoid gear snags or swing.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun and enjoy cooler, more stable rock conditions.
Focus on solid hand jams and deliberate placements through the overhanging crack crux.
Use the slung tree anchor for a straightforward rappel back to the base.
Wear sticky climbing shoes that handle jugs and edges comfortably but allow flexibility for jams.
Bring a set of cams focused on hand sizes, with a few additional pieces slightly above or below to accommodate the crack’s changing width through the overhanging corner.
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