"Ides of Fall presents a compelling single-pitch test on the rugged granite of October Wall, combining a unique undercling start with a fluid lieback line. With carefully cautious moves on raw, sometimes loose rock, this less-frequented climb offers both a technical challenge and a quiet moment among the larger Slick Rock Dome routes."
Ides of Fall is a single-pitch sport and top-rope climb set on the far left edge of October Wall within the Slick Rock Dome area, just off Highway 50 near Lake Tahoe, California. From the ground up, the route challenges climbers with an undercling start that pulls you into the granite’s textured surface before sweeping leftward into a steady lieback. The granite here demands respect; it's somewhat loose and hasn’t seen the polished wear of busier routes, making every hold worth the scrutiny of careful testing. This isn’t a climb for mindless upward movement — the rock seems to engage with a will of its own, requiring a balance of power and finesse. Expect the surface to feel raw under your fingertips, with occasional fragile flakes testing your technique and patience.
The route measures about 50 feet and maintains a moderate 5.8 rating, making it accessible to confident climbers ready to probe exposed moves without over-committing. The approach is straightforward but requires attentiveness; the entry undercling invites you to settle into the rock before sliding left and up with a satisfying rhythm. Because the climb isn’t frequently repeated, it offers a more solitary experience compared to nearby polished classics, lending a quiet connection with the wall’s raw personality.
October Wall itself sits in a striking stretch of granite prominent in the Highway 50 corridor, offering broad views and a mix of climbing styles. Although the domain is known for sport routes, this particular climb is protected primarily by a top-rope setup, emphasizing safety in an area where loose rock can catch the unwary. The atmosphere is charged with the cool clarity of the Tahoe air, while the sun shifting across the dome throughout the day alternates shadows and warm granite patches.
To prepare for the climb, strong finger strength combined with solid footwork will serve well, especially as the moves lean on maintaining tension through the undercling and transitions. Given the rock’s variable condition, wearing shoes with sticky rubber and bringing a well-maintained top-rope setup is key. Early morning climbs are ideal to avoid the midday sun that can heat the exposed granite and sap your energy. Hydration matters here—top off your water before approaching, since there’s no reliable water source nearby.
In summary, Ides of Fall melds straightforward climbing with a subtle demand for careful movement on less-traveled granite. It’s a slice of raw rock inviting you to read its texture, respect its occasional looseness, and push through with smooth technique. Whether you’re warming up for a day of climbs around Slick Rock Dome or keen to explore a quieter route with a little edge, this climb offers a balanced challenge framed by the sweeping wildness of the Tahoe corridor.
The granite features some loose flakes, particularly near the start, so test every hold and avoid pulling or stepping on questionable edges. Falling sparingly and with care ensures you avoid dislodging rock that could affect both you and climbers below.
Check the condition of holds before fully committing to moves, especially at the undercling start.
Climb early in the morning to avoid hot granite and maximize friction.
Hydrate thoroughly before the climb—no water sources near the approach.
Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber to handle the raw granite texture.
The route is primarily top-rope protected with limited fixed anchors. Bring a solid top-rope setup and focus on reliable gear placement for safe falls. Loose holds require careful hand and foot placements, so sticky rubber shoes are recommended.
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