"ID Chimney offers a tight, technical 80-foot trad climb on difficult, broken terrain near Independence Pass. This single-pitch route challenges climbers with limited protection options and a crucial move over a key chockstone, rewarding preparedness and precision."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Difficult Wall near Independence Pass, the ID Chimney stands as a concentrated test of trad skills and route-finding savvy. This 80-foot climb demands a precise balance of technique and calm on broken terrain, navigating a narrow chimney with only a single pitch to prove your mettle. The approach itself is an adventure, requiring careful scrambling over fractured rock that invites careful footwork and deliberate movement. The chimney’s tight confines create a dynamic environment where the rock presses close, offering an almost tactile conversation between climber and stone. Approaching the chockstone, you'll face a crucial move: threading over this bulky obstruction frees the rope from potential drag, a subtle yet essential maneuver that underscores the climb’s practical demands.
Protection on the route is straightforward but requires thoughtful gear selection. A rack extending to a #3 cam is necessary, complemented by a long double-length sling to negotiate the chockstone effectively. While the chimney’s protection is sparse and somewhat elusive, climbers prepared with the right equipment will find this crack offers a satisfying mixture of challenge and opportunity. Rated at 5.9, the difficulty is approachable but not to be underestimated, especially given the PG-13 protection rating—a reminder that solid placements can be hard to come by in this narrow cleft.
Located at an elevation where mountain air grows noticeably crisp, Difficult Wall provides expansive views once you've moved beyond the immediate climbing zone. The wall faces south-ish, catching the first and last touches of sunlight, which makes timing your ascent important depending on the season. Spring and fall remain ideal windows when the sun warms the rock without overwhelming heat, while summer climbs may require early starts to escape afternoon heat and intense sun exposure.
The approach to the climb is just a short but rugged hike off the Difficult Campground. The access trail winds through a landscape marked by sparse trees and scattered alpine boulders, setting the tone for the technical terrain ahead. GPS coordinates lead the way, but expect rocky footing and the possibility of loose scree, making steady hiking boots a must. Once on route, the descent is straightforward: descend the way you came with caution, as the broken rock can be unstable underfoot.
For those drawn to moderate trad routes that demand attention to gear and movement, ID Chimney offers a focused experience with panoramic high-country scenery just a short trek from Independence Pass. It’s a route that engages the climber’s body and mind, combining a touch of exposure, thoughtful protection, and the satisfaction of overcoming a unique feature on a quiet Colorado wall.
Protection can be difficult to secure within the chimney, especially near the chockstone. Careful placement and attentive rope management are essential. Loose rock on the approach requires caution to avoid slips.
Scramble carefully on loose broken terrain to reach the climb's base.
Use the sling to reduce rope drag over the chockstone.
Start early in the day during summer to avoid intense sun on the exposed wall.
Wear sturdy shoes with good grip for the approach and descent.
Bring a single rack to #3 cams and a long double-length sling to efficiently protect around the chockstone.
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