"Ichiban delivers 800 feet of engaging alpine trad climbing on Tijeras Peak’s rugged granite, blending technical crack work with exposed face climbing. Perfect for climbers seeking a sustained adventure with a panoramic summit view of Colorado’s peaks and dunes below."
Ichiban stakes a bold claim on Tijeras Peak’s rugged flanks, offering a rewarding alpine trad climb that challenges both skill and resolve. This ten-pitch route, stretching roughly 800 feet, navigates a steep ramp of fine granite interspersed with slick water-polished edges and loose gully sections, demanding steady footwork and careful gear placement. Starting from a dry watercourse that pulses quietly with past runoff, the approach immediately confronts you with a 4th-class scramble beside a lingering snow patch—a raw entry that hints at the wild terrain ahead.
The first two pitches ride along the rock's sharp contours, presenting holds that feel carved and worn by persistent mountain weather, rated 5.5 and 5.7. The exposure grows steadily, culminating in a belay ledge tucked just to the right of the gully, where loose debris warns against complacency. Beyond this sits the longest crux, the notorious 5.8X pitch where the path veers left onto an unprotected face beside a crack that spits holds short of the higher ledge. Here, the rock stretches smooth and daunting, requiring technical precision and calm under pressure. A carefully placed pair of Z pitons form a fragile belay, underscoring the seriousness of this section and the need for solid pro.
From this point, the route threads easier terrain, following a right-leaning trough before launching into a short but enjoyable 5.8 pitch loaded with quality placements. The final ascent sweeps over broad slabs peppered with increasingly mellow 4th and 3rd-class moves, welcoming climbers into a high alpine environment bracketed by iconic views. As you top out, the panorama expands to frame Colorado’s majestic 14ers to both north and south, while the distant sand dunes ripple below, adding a surprising contrast to the rocky summit.
Planning for Ichiban requires a full trad rack, including specialized blades like Knife Blades and Bugaboos to secure your line through tricky placements and sparse fixed protection. The wild, exposed nature of the route means timing and weather are your constant companions; a dry day makes all the difference, transforming a precarious journey into a pure climb. The approach is straightforward but demands attention—expect loose scree and variable rock quality, especially in the gully sections. For those ready to engage with a route that balances thoughtful technical sections with alpine terrain and breathtaking vistas, Ichiban rewards with a climb that feels honest and raw.
Whether you’re chasing strong crackwork, alpine ambiance, or pushing yourself on sustained trad pitches with consequential runouts, this route on Tijeras Peak offers a textured adventure that stands apart in Colorado’s Sangre de Cristo Range. Arrive prepared, move carefully, and savor each moment of exposure and discovery along this demanding route.
Loose rock in the gully on pitch three requires careful navigation to avoid dislodging debris. The delicate protection on the 5.8 X pitch means a fall could be serious—ensure your placements are solid and communicate clearly with your partner. Additionally, weather in the Sangre de Cristo can shift rapidly, so be prepared for sudden storms.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the Sangre de Cristo Range.
Expect loose rock in the gully on pitch three—proceed with extra caution here.
Pack dry socks and hydration, as the approach traverses variable terrain with no reliable water sources.
Consider belay positioning carefully on pitch four to maximize gear options and safety.
A comprehensive trad rack is essential for Ichiban, including a set of Knife Blades and Bugaboos for delicate placements on some of the trickier pitches. Fixed protection is sparse, so experience with gear placement is crucial, especially on the serious 5.8 X pitch.
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