5.9, Trad
Joshua Tree
California ,United States
"I Slept With L.K. invites climbers to tackle a clean, knobby finger crack on the south face of Stirrup Towers. With solid friction and straightforward protection, this 80-foot 5.9 trad route perfectly balances challenge and flow within the rugged Joshua Tree landscape."
Carved into the sunbaked south face of Stirrup Towers in Joshua Tree National Park, "I Slept With L.K." offers an engaging 80-foot finger and hand crack that rewards climbers with a blend of technical finesse and straightforward adventure. This route sits quietly to the right of the well-known Bublinki, sharing the same knobby granite that Joshua Tree is famous for, inviting you to explore its sharp friction and clean lines. The crack’s tactile, almost sculpted features provide steady holds that feel alive beneath your fingertips, daring you to maintain steady rhythm and body tension.
Joshua Tree’s arid desert atmosphere surrounds the climb, with the sun painting warm hues on the rock as the day unfolds. The dry air hums softly amid the pungent scent of creosote and juniper, keeping climbers sharp and alert. Approaching the wall, the trail offers a mellow hike, threading through scattered boulders and resilient desert brush. The area’s rugged beauty is balanced by practical ease of access, making it a fitting choice for trad climbers testing their technique on moderate crack climbs.
This single-pitch climb holds at a solid 5.9 rating, where finger jams transition smoothly to wider hand locks, calling for a range of rack sizes and thoughtful gear placement. Standard rack gear is sufficient, though keeping protection well-distributed will help manage the sustained nature of the crack. The granite’s texture clings to your shoes and hands, demanding attention but rewarding with consistent friction that lets you focus on technique rather than struggle.
Descending after the climb is straightforward with a single rappel, dropping you gently back to the desert floor. Joshua Tree’s iconic wide-open skies and endless horizon provide a moment to breathe and reflect on the climb’s flow before heading back to camp or onto your next route. Practical planning for hydration and sun protection is essential; the combination of desert heat and sun-exposed granite can quickly sap strength without proper preparation.
Whether you’re refining crack skills, seeking a solid single-pitch testpiece, or simply soaking in the stark beauty of Joshua Tree, "I Slept With L.K." hits the mark as a balanced, approachable challenge. It blends the park’s enduring spirit with a route that rewards patience, precision, and respect for the rock beneath your hands.
While the protection is solid with a standard rack, be mindful of your gear placements to avoid long falls. The rappel anchors are reliable but inspect chains and slings due to natural desert wear and occasional sand abrasion.
Start your climb early to avoid the midday heat on the south face.
Bring plenty of water; desert conditions can quickly dehydrate you.
Use shoes with good friction for the knobby granite texture.
Rappel carefully—the anchors are straightforward but verify before descending.
A standard rack covers this route well, with nuts and cams that fit finger-to-hand-sized cracks. Focus on even placements along the sustained crack to manage the climb's flow.
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