"I Love L.A. challenges climbers with steep, technical face climbing and a desperate roof clip that separates the bold from the cautious. This single-pitch sport route in Foothill Crag demands balance, precision, and steady nerves, rewarding those who commit with a memorable push on solid Central Coast rock."
I Love L.A. carves a steep, spine-tingling route on the imposing face of Foothill Crag, marking itself as one of the boldest lines on the wall. Starting just left of Ruthless Poodles, this single-pitch climb immediately demands skilled footwork on positive holds that hint at the challenges ahead. The route begins with solid, well-bolted 5.9 face climbing that eases into an obvious ledge, offering a moment to catch your breath and scan the terrain above.
But don’t get too comfortable—once you leave the ledge, the climb intensifies. Expect a series of strenuous, balance-driven moves that push you into a desperate clip at the roof’s bolt. This clip is the crux: it’s exposed, requires precision, and a hesitation here could mean a fall back onto the ledge below. To protect this section, climbers often supplement bolts by placing small gear, mostly up to 3/4 inch cams, because the spacing feels serious.
Beyond the roof, the climbing opens into a slick 5.10a headwall section with solid holds demanding composure and steady movement. The line trends right, testing your stamina and route-reading on face terrain that grades out at 5.8 but is punctuated with some runout between bolts. Finally, a short traverse leads you to fixed anchors, signaling a welcome end to the physical and mental challenge.
I Love L.A. isn’t for the faint-hearted. Its combination of exposed moves, technical sequences, and serious protection gaps make it a commitment on lead. It demands calm breathing under pressure and precise footwork on an intricate wall that feels harder than its neighbor, Ruthless Poodles. That said, for climbers ready to engage with a route that rewards boldness and skill, the sense of accomplishment at the top is well-earned.
The approach is straightforward, with the crag located just off Highway 33 near Ojai, California. The rock is solid and packed with features, surrounded by dry chaparral that basks in the sun, warming the wall through much of the day. Best climbed in the cooler months or early morning hours to avoid midday heat, Foothill Crag offers a classic Central Coast experience: dry rock, clear air, and a touch of wilderness on the edge of town.
Gear-wise, you’ll want a standard sport rack with a few small cams for added safety in the midsection. Bolts are generally reliable, but the spacing around the roof clip and above requires a cautious approach. Wear sticky shoes to handle the face holds, and plan for a controlled descent via fixed anchors. Hydration is key here, especially in warmer months, as the sun beats down directly onto this steep face.
Local climbers recommend scouting the route from the ground to identify key resting spots and clutch holds. Approach with respect, as a fall here is not forgiving, and the commitment on lead amplifies the need for steady nerves and efficient movement. If you’re eager for a challenging pitch that blends technical face climbing with mental grit, I Love L.A. delivers with a signature mix of exposure, balance, and sustained difficulty.
The roof clip is a serious crux point; an untimely fall here risks swinging back onto the ledge below. Supplemental small gear placements help reduce fall potential, but the route demands confident lead climbing and deliberate clipping under pressure.
Scout the clip at the roof carefully to plan your moves and reduce hesitation.
Wear sticky climbing shoes for positive footholds on the technical face.
Bring small cams (up to 3/4") to protect the ledge area below the roof clip.
Start early or climb in cooler months to avoid intense midday sun exposure.
The route is bolted throughout with 3 protection bolts replaced in late 1999 by Reese Martin. Some small gear (up to 3/4 inch cams) is advisable for added security, particularly near the roof clip and mid-height ledge to minimize fall risk on exposed sections.
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