HomeClimbingI Am Not A Crook

I Am Not A Crook at Watergate Rock, Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree, California United States
trad climbing
desert climb
friction
bolted anchors
Joshua Tree
single pitch
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
I Am Not A Crook
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A focused single-pitch trad climb on a sharp granite spike, 'I Am Not A Crook' blends friction moves with strategic gear placements. Set in the heart of Joshua Tree, it offers desert views and manageable exposure ideal for trad climbers dialing their skills."

I Am Not A Crook at Watergate Rock, Joshua Tree

Rising sharply from the arid desert floor, the route 'I Am Not A Crook' offers climbers an intimate encounter with the stark granite shapes that define Joshua Tree National Park’s unique character. This single-pitch trad climb demands a mix of steady footwork and confident gear placement, starting with a deliberate ascent to the summit of a pointed rock spike. The initial approach requires careful friction moves, urging hands and feet to read the subtle textures of the face as you advance past two fixed bolts that punctuate the line. These bolts serve as reassuring markers rather than crutches, emphasizing the need for sound traditional protection during the climb.

The exposure is modest but rewarding, framed by the immense openness of the surrounding desert landscape. From the top, a gear belay allows a moment to catch your breath and drink in the expansive views stretching over rugged boulders and sparse desert flora. The descent is straightforward, a short, easy walk down and right along the base of the main Watergate Rock slab, easing you back from the climb’s focused intensity.

Climbers should come prepared with gear suited for placements up to 3 inches, complementing the two well-spaced 3/8" bolts that anchor the route. The climb balances friction and crack climbing techniques across its 40-foot length, requiring both a steady head and careful foot placements to maintain security on the sharp granite.

Watergate Rock sits within the larger Comic Book Area, a well-loved corner of Joshua Tree known for its rugged, clean faces and accessible trad lines. The sun-baked granite absorbs the desert heat, making early mornings or late afternoons the best window for tackling this climb while avoiding the peak midday temperatures. Footwear with a precise sticky rubber sole will serve well here, granting confidence on the demanding friction sections.

Although the route is rated a moderate 5.8, the technical nuances and natural protection placements mean it holds interest for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills without overwhelming physical challenge. After the climb, the nearby trails and vistas reward adventurers with a chance to explore the surrounding desert terrain, where wind-carved boulders and resilient Joshua trees seem to challenge visitors to test their grit.

In short, 'I Am Not A Crook' is a concise but satisfying trad pitch, perfect for bridging the gap between the desert’s imposing grandeur and the precise craft of crack and face climbing.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the friction sections, especially near the bolts where rock texture changes. The descent trail has loose gravel—take care to avoid slips when descending after the climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the desert midday heat.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes to maximize traction on the smooth granite.

Place gear carefully; some placements may be shallow or tricky due to the rock’s friction.

Descent is walk-off down and right—watch footing on the slab base after the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.8, this climb leans into technical friction and gear placements that can momentarily raise the difficulty. The rating feels fair overall, but the move past the bolts requires delicate balance. Climbers familiar with other Joshua Tree slabs will find this grade consistent with local standards.

Gear Requirements

The route requires two 3/8-inch bolts and traditional gear placements up to 3 inches. Bring a full rack with cams and nuts suited for medium to large cracks to protect the frictiony face sections securely.

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Tags

trad climbing
desert climb
friction
bolted anchors
Joshua Tree
single pitch