5.9, Trad
Joshua Tree
California ,United States
"Hunkloads to Hermosa offers a steep, mentally engaging climb on the East Face of Hunk Rock in Joshua Tree. This single pitch challenges your focus more than your strength and shines best in the early morning light."
Hunkloads to Hermosa offers more than just a physical climb—it tests the climber’s mental grit on the steep, raw stone of Hunk Rock’s East Face. Situated in the Barker Dam Area of Joshua Tree National Park, this one-pitch route runs approximately 70 feet and shines in the early morning sun, making the approach to the climb quietly illuminated by gentle warmth as the desert awakens.
The climb’s standout feature is its emphasis on mental calm over brute strength. Unlike routes that demand sustained power or endurance, Hunkloads to Hermosa presents moves that require precise foot placement and patient pacing, drawing you inward to focus intensely. With only two bolts protecting the line, expect a fairly sparse setup that urges you to stay sharp, trusting your gear and your skills.
The rock itself is a steep, clean face with subtle texture, challenging your balance and ability to read holds carefully. The environment around the climb heightens the experience: the dry desert air hums softly, occasional chatter from birds blends with the whisper of a distant breeze, and the vast openness of Joshua Tree feels both invigorating and humbling. This is not a climb where the stone fights you with toughness so much as it invites a quiet dialogue between you and the route.
Approaching the climb is straightforward but reflective—about a half-mile hike from the Barker Dam parking area leads you across a rocky trail shaded sporadically by Joshua trees and coarse desert shrubs. This path rewards you with distant views of rock formations jutting against the immensity of the sky, setting a calm but alert tone before you even strap on your harness.
Falling on this route means trusting your protection and your composure. The two bolts provide critical security, but the approach demands precise clipping, and gear placement is limited. That focus on mental steadiness also means pacing yourself, especially when the holds thin out and the exposure whispers caution. This isn’t a climb to rush; the rewards come to those willing to blend skillful edging with calm breathing.
For climbing in Joshua Tree, days in the cooler months generally offer the best conditions. Early mornings are prime, with the sun warming the rock but not baking the body, and the desert remains quiet and clear. Bringing plenty of water, sturdy climbing shoes with sticky soles, and a helmet is essential. The approach trails can be uneven and rocky, so supportive footwear is recommended well before you reach the vertical challenge.
Hunkloads to Hermosa sits within the larger Hunk Rock climbing zone—an area prized among trad climbers for its clean lines and relatively quiet climbs. The zone retains a rugged, natural feel, just far enough from the more trafficked spots in Joshua Tree to offer a bit of solitude. This route may not be the longest or steepest in the park, but it stands out by inviting a thoughtful, measured style of climbing that rewards mental focus as much as physical effort.
If you’re looking for a climb that sharpens your head game while immersing you in the iconic Joshua Tree desert landscape, Hunkloads to Hermosa delivers. It blends a straightforward approach with a punch of complexity on the wall, revealing beauty not in raw difficulty, but in the subtle mastery of balance, patience, and trust.
With only two fixed bolts, protection is minimal but reliable—clip carefully and double-check gear placements. The steep face can be slippery if dust collects on holds, so especially after wind or rare rain, brush carefully before climbing.
Start early to avoid the desert heat and catch the route in gentle morning sun.
Wear sticky climbing shoes for the steep, smooth granite surface.
Carry plenty of water for the approach and climb; desert air is dry and dehydrating.
Use a helmet—rockfall risk is moderate, especially near the start of the pitch.
Two 3/8" bolts provide the fixed protection, with limited natural gear placements. Bring a standard trad rack but rely on careful clipping and precise gear placements near bolts.
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