HomeClimbingHungover Hangover

Hungover Hangover: A Sharp Handcrack Challenge on Black Wall

Truckee,California ,United States
handcrack
overhang
crux
granite
taping recommended
Donner Summit
single pitch
Grade: 5.10a
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hungover Hangover
Aspect
South Facing

Hungover Hangover

5.10a, Trad

Truckee

California ,United States

Overview

"Hungover Hangover tests your crack climbing finesse on a 50-foot, slightly overhanging handcrack etched into Black Wall’s granite. A classic Donner Summit route requiring precise jams, careful protection, and a taste for sharp granite textures."

Hungover Hangover: A Sharp Handcrack Challenge on Black Wall

Hungover Hangover offers a compelling single pitch test on the left flank of Black Wall, a rugged granite face standing prominent along Donner Summit's I-80 corridor. This 50-foot traditional climb demands precise hand jams and confident footwork as it threads through a handcrack that leans slightly overhanging, snaking between tight hand, hands, and big hands sizes. The experience is tactile and engaging; granite here is coarse and angular with large cubic feldspar crystals embedded both in the crack and on the face, lending a distinct texture that rewards careful placements but also warns of abrasions – taping your hands becomes essential to avoid raw skin. Climbers begin by eyeing the crack from belay bolts atop nearby routes like Rat's Tooth or Touch and Go, spotting the impressive handcrack before committing.

The route’s character builds through a pod feature before pushing around a subtle bulge, where the crux move demands body tension and a committed reach. Above this, the crack softens into slightly less steep, slabby terrain guiding you to comfortable belay bolts. From this anchor, a variety of options unfold—downclimb and rap off, traverse left onto Empty Sky, or venture right to explore adjacent face climbs.

This climb holds a vibrant history, credited to Craig "Shanny" Shanholtzer with roots stretching back to the early 1970s, when he took over cleaning the line after Kim Schmitz and Jim Bridwell’s initial work. Stories from seasoned Tahoe climbers recall the persistence and grit required to send this demanding crack, underscoring its status as a classic testpiece in the Donner Summit area.

Approaching Hungover Hangover involves navigating the Black Wall sector, which rewards climbers with views of the Lake Tahoe basin and the surrounding Sierra Nevada peaks. The granite here feels alive—sharp edges dare every finger jam to hold tight while the sunlight plays across the crystal-studded rock. A solid day of climbing here is part discipline, part appreciation of the mountain’s relentless texture.

Protection is straightforward but demands a good rack. Doubles of cams from tight to big hand sizes fill gear placements, while finger-sized pieces are handy for the climb’s subtle lower section. These placements keep the lead secure but require attention and some finesse due to pocketed and angular granite.

Given its exposure to the elements, the climb performs best during clear, dry weather in late spring through early fall. Morning ascents avoid the hottest hours as the sun slowly warms the wall’s left side, while afternoons bring full sunshine and striking alpine views.

Hungover Hangover stands as a gritty, physical route designed for climbers looking to sharpen crack technique while enjoying the rugged backdrop of the Sierra range. With careful preparation—taping, solid crack gear, and mindful pacing—this climb offers both a thoroughly satisfying line and a vivid connection to the storied climbing history of Donner Summit.

Climber Safety

The route’s sharp granite can quickly abrade skin—taping and careful hand placements are critical. Additionally, be mindful of loose rock when approaching the climb and use the established belay bolts to avoid unnecessary exposure.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10a
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Tape your hands thoroughly to prevent cuts from sharp granite crystals.

Start from belay bolts atop Rat’s Tooth or Touch and Go to easily locate the crack.

Approach early in the morning for cooler rock and shaded conditions on the wall’s left side.

Prepare for variable foot placements as the crack transitions from overhanging to slabby rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Hungover Hangover offers a solid technical challenge mostly through jamming moves that feel true to grade but can feel stiff on the bulge section where the crux lies. The finger-to-big hand crack sequence demands both strength and precise technique, making it a rewarding step up from more moderate cracks in the area.

Gear Requirements

Bring doubles of cams sized from tight to big hand, with a few finger-sized pieces ready for the lower crack section. Taping your hands is highly recommended due to the granite’s sharpness.

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Tags

handcrack
overhang
crux
granite
taping recommended
Donner Summit
single pitch