"Hunab-ku takes you up a sharp arete in Central Mexico with a compact 65-foot challenge. Featuring a tough crux mid-route and reliable bolted protection, it’s a perfect single-pitch test of precision and power."
Hunab-ku offers a compact yet demanding climbing experience right in the heart of Central Mexico’s vibrant climbing scene. This single-pitch route stretches 65 feet up a distinctive arete that demands precision and technique to master. As you start, a short but engaging crack invites your fingers and hands before leading to a sloping ledge that temporarily eases the effort. From here, the climb becomes a test of control and strategy, following a line of bolts that edge the sharp arete, exposing you to both the rock’s texture and the open sky.
The crux lies near the fourth bolt, where a technical, almost improbable sequence requires a deft combination of body tension, finger strength, and balance. It’s a moment that challenges even experienced climbers to rethink their moves, rewarding sharp focus and careful footwork. The route’s 5.12a rating delivers a solid challenge that won't feel overly soft but remains approachable for climbers ready to push their limits.
Located within the Los Remedios area, this climb benefits from a well-developed sport crag environment, featuring nine bolts and secure anchors to ensure safety while you focus on the climbing itself. The rock’s texture offers reliable friction, while the line’s natural features add variety and rhythm to each move. Though the wall faces generally southwest, timing your climb for the cooler morning hours can make your ascent more comfortable, especially when the sun grows strong in the afternoon.
Accessing Hunab-ku is straightforward, with a short walk from the main trailhead through mostly open terrain with sparse vegetation. The approach takes about 10-15 minutes, making it an ideal pick for a focused training session or a warm-up on your climbing day. Make sure your shoes offer good precision for the thin crack and the subtleties of the tapered arete. Hydration and sun protection are key considerations here, given the exposed nature of the climb and limited shade.
With a reputation built on its compact difficulty and clean sport bolts, Hunab-ku invites climbers eager to sharpen their technical skills amidst the dynamic landscape of Central Mexico. Whether you’re setting out to tick your first 5.12a or looking to refine your movement on aretes, this route delivers direct and satisfying climbing with enough challenges to keep your focus sharp. Prepare your gear thoroughly and approach with a clear plan — the rock will test your finesse but reward your attention with every hold.
The route features well-spaced bolts along a smooth arete, so precise clipping is essential to avoid drop factors. Pay special attention during the crux moves where the holds are less obvious, and the tendency to swing is higher. Approach carefully as the terrain is open but lacks protective shade.
Start early to avoid climbing under the intense midday sun on the southwest-facing wall.
Wear shoes with precise toe placement to handle the thin crack and arete edging.
Bring sun protection and water—shade is limited on the approach and climb.
Stay aware of the crux near bolt four to conserve energy for the technical sequence.
Route is secured with 9 bolts and established anchors, offering solid protection for all moves. Bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws for clipping. The sequence around the fourth bolt demands careful clip timing under strain.
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