HomeClimbingHuman Erazer Direct

Human Erazer Direct: A Compact Challenge on Minkey Wall

Welsford, Canada
vertical crack
flakes
single pitch
exposed
technical crimps
runout section
granite
New Brunswick climbing
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Human Erazer Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Human Erazer Direct offers a sharp, technical pitch up vertical cracks and flakes on Minkey Wall. With a vital horizontal crack protecting the crux, this 100-foot trad route challenges your gear placement and control in a compact yet committing climb."

Human Erazer Direct: A Compact Challenge on Minkey Wall

Human Erazer Direct on Minkey Wall commands attention with its concise, intense journey up vertical cracks and sharp flakes, delivering an experience that blends bold moves with strategic protection. Starting at the base, climbers ascend to an initial ledge that offers a moment to steady nerves before tackling the core of the route. The climb’s texture changes as you press upward, navigating cracks that demand precise hand jams and finger locks, leading you to a well-earned comfortable stance about three-quarters up. Here, a wide, bomber horizontal crack invites careful placement of smaller cams, a critical move to secure your safety before approaching the crux.

The crux itself looms immediately after this protection: a transition onto the face that challenges grip strength and focus. Small crimps pepper the path, requiring a deft touch and confident footwork to pull through. This venture past the tight holds tests both power and finesse, heightening the sense of exposure as the terrain runs out slightly. After surmounting this section, the route eases into gentler climbing, allowing for recovery while you push toward the summit.

Set within the rugged expanse of Cochrane Lane Cliffs in New Brunswick, this single-pitch trad route offers a pure, compact adventure that rewards preparation and commitment. The granite’s weathered edges tell stories of seasons past, while the open exposure connects climbers with the broad northern landscape. While the climb demands technical gear and steady nerves, it remains accessible to those equipped with solid crack climbing skills and a calm approach to risk management.

Planning your ascent requires attention to rack selection — smaller cams in the .3 to .5 range are essential, especially for protecting the horizontal crack before the crux, where a runout feel can raise the stakes. The route’s moderate length, roughly 100 feet, means the climb moves swiftly, but don't underestimate the physicality packed into this compact stretch. Late spring through early fall offers the best window for climbing, avoiding icy holds and unstable weather.

Summertime sun drenches Minkey Wall in warmth during daylight hours, but shade offers welcome reprieve near the ledge. Expect light winds and the ambient sounds of the forest framing the cliffs, with occasional distant calls of wildlife punctuating the stillness. The blend of natural detail and physical challenge makes Human Erazer Direct a memorable test for trad climbers eager to sharpen their skills on an exposed, technical face. Approach with measured confidence and a clear plan to make the most of this focused, instructive climb.

Climber Safety

The horizontal crack before the crux is essential for protection—skipping it leaves a runout section that can heighten the risk. Pay close attention to gear placements and be prepared for rough granite edges that can abrade hands and ropes.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Carry smaller cams (0.3 - 0.5) to secure the horizontal crack before the crux.

Start early in the day to avoid the afternoon sun on the upper wall.

Wear sturdy crack gloves or tape fingers to protect against rough edges on flakes.

Approach with moderate experience in face and crack climbing for best results.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d PG13, Human Erazer Direct is a moderate yet committing climb. The grade feels accurate with a distinct crux on the face past the horizontal crack where protection thins out slightly. Technical finger jams and sustained moves differentiate it from easier local climbs, requiring solid grip technique and calm execution.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack required, with particular emphasis on saving smaller BD cams in the 0.3 to 0.5 range for the horizontal crack protecting the crux section.

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Tags

vertical crack
flakes
single pitch
exposed
technical crimps
runout section
granite
New Brunswick climbing