HomeClimbingH.R. Hardman

H.R. Hardman at Watergate Rock

Twentynine Palms, California United States
trad
trad protection
flared crack
Joshua Tree
desert climbing
single pitch
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
H.R. Hardman
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Offering a precise Trad climb with strong protection low and a tricky flared crack at the top, H.R. Hardman at Watergate Rock challenges climbers to balance skill and caution amid Joshua Tree’s desert expanse. The route combines solid rock with sparse upper placements, rewarded by sweeping views and quiet solitude."

H.R. Hardman at Watergate Rock

H.R. Hardman presents a straightforward yet compelling trad climb on the second face just left of the distinctive leaning block at Watergate Rock, inside Joshua Tree National Park. The route offers roughly 50 feet of climbing that challenges with its mixture of solid initial moves and a deceptively exposed crack near the top. The lower section climbs on mostly dependable rock, where protection is fairly generous, offering a sense of security as you ascend. However, the upper portion introduces a flared crack that proves both tricky and sparse for placements, demanding careful attention and precision in gear placement. The two-bolt anchor, equipped with hangers only, sits slightly right and above the crack’s exit, providing a safe and stable belay position.

Watergate Rock’s stark desert setting wraps the route in classic Joshua Tree character—sun-baked, rugged, and exposed to endless blue skies. Approaching the wall, you can feel the desert heat pushing against your exposed skin, while the dry air carries the faint whisper of wind threading through the low brush. The climb’s location within the Comic Book Area offers a surprising pocket of quiet relief, far from the busier routes but still embedding you in wide-open desert beauty. This is a climb that leans on your ability to read gear placements and maintain steady control rather than brute power.

From a planning perspective, consider midday to late afternoon climbs when the wall basks in the sun, enhancing friction on the rock. Despite its moderate rating of 5.8 PG13, the flared crack’s poor protection raises the stakes, making mental focus and solid trad skills essential. Climbers should pack a standard trad rack with a good selection of cams capable of handling flared features—smaller sizes may prove less secure here. Sturdy shoes with sticky rubber will help you trust your footing on the often sandy ledges and smoothed edges. Watergate Rock’s desert environment means early season spring or fall ascents are best to avoid the intense summer heat.

Access involves a manageable walk from the main trailhead in Joshua Tree National Park, crossing a sandy, gently rolling landscape typical of this protected area. The approach demands solid footwear to handle loose gravel and occasional vegetation, but hikers can usually reach the base in 20 to 30 minutes. GPS coordinates near 34.0115 latitude and -116.1463 longitude place you at the heart of this unique climb, offering excellent situational awareness when planning your day.

H.R. Hardman offers climbers a blend of desert adventure and technical problem-solving, rewarded by panoramic views and a strong sense of solitude. Whether you’re sharpening your trad game or searching for a moderate challenge far from the crowds, this route delivers both in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Though the initial section is well-protected, the upper flared crack is notoriously difficult to secure gear in. Climbers should exercise caution and keep gear placements meticulous. The two-bolt anchor provides a solid belay, but the exposed desert environment can cause rapid sun exposure—carry sufficient water and sun protection.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Bring a full trad rack focusing on cams sized for flared cracks.

Climb mid-morning to late afternoon for optimal sun and friction.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber to handle sandy ledges.

Approach trail has loose gravel—sturdy footwear is essential.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 grade feels honest for Joshua Tree standards, with a protection rating that adds a psychological edge, especially on the flared crack near the top. Although the moves aren’t physically demanding, the sparse placements increase the mental challenge. Compared to nearby routes, H.R. Hardman offers a reliably solid start with a cautious finish that rewards precise gear work.

Gear Requirements

Protection includes 4 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor all fitted with 3/8-inch hangers at the top. Expect decent gear low on the route, but prepare for challenging placements in the flared crack section. A traditional rack with varied cam sizes is recommended.

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Tags

trad
trad protection
flared crack
Joshua Tree
desert climbing
single pitch