"This solid single-pitch trad climb on the Top 40 Wall challenges climbers with flaring cracks and finger jams. A variation adds hand- and fist-sized cracks, increasing the grade and fun factor. Perfect for crack enthusiasts near Lyons, Colorado."
Set on the rugged face of the Top 40 Wall, "How Can I Miss You If You Won't Go Away?" offers a clean, single-pitch trad climb that challenges both your technique and route-reading instincts. Located on the right-hand side of the two adjacent cracks near "If You Won't Leave Me ...~," the route begins with a flaring crack that demands thoughtful hand jamming with plenty of space for bigger gear. After gaining a ledge halfway up, the route takes a brief rightward jog before settling into an unmistakable finger crack that leads to a small flake hold near the top. This crack system rewards climbers with friction and good holds, making for steady upward progress that requires solid crack skills and patience.
For those looking to push their limits, an engaging variation waits on the upper right section— a hand- and fist-sized crack that bumps the grade to 5.8+. This option demands confident wide jamming and the willingness to commit to few resting spots, but climbers who take it on often rate the experience as big fun, a real test of strength and body positioning.
The entire climb stretches around 100 feet, a manageable length for a half-day outing. The approach to this crag is straightforward, with clear paths leading through lush forests and dry brushes of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. Once on the rock, the air hums with the sounds of wind whispering through pines and the distant murmur of the stream below — serving as a natural backdrop that keeps the focus in the moment.
Protection is standard: a rack extending to a #4 Camalot covers the range, but if you choose the variation, bringing a spare #3 Camalot or an equivalent camming device is essential for safe placements in the wider, more challenging crack. There are no fixed anchors; climbers need to build their own belay stations at the summit, rewarding careful gear placements and ensuring safety on the descent. The descent itself is typically a walk-off down the southwest approach, but staying alert to loose rock and footing is critical.
Situated near Lyons, Colorado, this climb places you in a unique pocket of the Rocky Mountain foothills, where granite walls rise sharply and the air chills just enough to keep you cool under the sun. Early morning or late afternoon climbs suit this east-facing wall best, offering comfortable temperatures without the harsh midday glare. The area’s quiet character invites a focused, rewarding experience, away from crowded crags.
In short, "How Can I Miss You If You Won't Go Away?" is a solid introduction to classic crack climbing, balancing approachability with opportunities to test your jamming technique. Whether you’re honing trad basics or reaching for the slightly harder variation, it delivers memorable moves and a chance to connect with the rock in a peaceful setting.
Loose rock can appear near the ledge and the approach; use caution, especially when transitioning between cracks. Building your own anchor requires careful placements—double-check gear security before committing to the rappel or walk-off descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun; the wall faces east.
Bring extra nuts and cams for tricky, flaring placements.
Scout the variation carefully before committing—it's a step up in difficulty.
Watch your footing on the ledge before the final finger crack.
Bring a full trad rack up to a #4 Camalot, with an extra #3 Camalot for the upper variation. You'll need to build your own anchor at the top, so plan for solid pro placements.
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