"House Of The Homeless is a short, steep sport climb on North Horror Rock in Joshua Tree offering solid friction and well-spaced bolts. Perfect for a quick warm-up or to break into the desert climbing experience, it's a reliable spot before tackling tougher nearby routes."
Just a short walk from the parking area, the House Of The Homeless route offers a compact, energetic climb on North Horror Rock’s South & East Faces. This 50-foot, single-pitch sport climb challenges you to read its steep, textured walls with precision. Starting just down and right from the well-known Grit Roof, the route grabs your attention with an obvious roof crack visible from below. The climb demands confident footwork on frictiony rock as you move upward toward a high first bolt, then carefully shift right and continue climbing past two more bolts toward an anchor perched on a sloping ramp.
The granite here is alive beneath your fingertips—each hold deliberate, each move requiring focus on balance and traction. The face feels lively, shaped by years of sun and wind, offering a direct encounter with the stark desert climbing Joshua Tree is famous for. The route’s short length makes it an ideal warm-up for those eyeballing the nearby classics or just looking to get a quick crux session in before the heat of the day sets in.
Protection is straightforward, with three well-spaced bolts and a secure bolted anchor using 3/8-inch hardware. This setup provides peace of mind while demanding the kind of precise movement that keeps your mind sharp. Once at the top, you have the option to rappel or carefully downclimb the sloping ramp to your left, a maneuver best performed with deliberate attention to footing.
Timing your climb is key here; early mornings or late afternoons bring the best light and temperatures, as the rock can heat rapidly under the desert sun. The route’s position on the south-facing wall means it catches warmth quickly but also offers shade during cooler hours, making it accessible over many months of the year. With only one star out of five in popularity, House Of The Homeless remains a quieter option for climbers seeking a straightforward, engaging pitch without the crowds.
Joshua Tree’s Sheep Pass Area, where North Horror Rock stands, combines approachable terrain with striking desert landscapes, making this route a practical choice for those looking to balance adventure with efficiency. Bring sturdy climbing shoes with good edging capability, keep hydrated given the desert environment, and prepare for sun exposure with a hat and sunscreen. The route’s moderate 5.9 grade is accessible for intermediate climbers ready to sharpen their sport climbing skills with an enjoyable and brisk challenge.
While the bolts are solid and anchors reliable, the approach and descent demand attention. The sloping ramp at the top can be slippery when loose sand or dust collects, so ensure deliberate foot placement during your downclimb or rappel setup. Temperatures can spike quickly—carry sun protection and avoid climbing when the rock is scalding hot.
Start early to avoid the midday desert heat on the south-facing wall.
Wear sticky climbing shoes with good edging for frictiony granite.
Bring plenty of water; the Sheep Pass area has limited shade.
Rappel from the top anchor or downclimb the left sloping ramp with care.
Three 3/8" bolts secure the route with a bolted anchor at the top. Bolt hangers were replaced in 2001, ensuring reliable protection for this fast-and-fun pitch.
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