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House of Cards: A Classic 5.9 Trad Test on Cardmon Pinnacle

Running Springs, California United States
left-leaning hand crack
vertical crux
granite
single pitch
traditional
southern california
5.9 trad
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
House of Cards
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"House of Cards traces a clean, left-leaning hand crack up Cardmon Pinnacle’s northwest face. This 40-foot 5.9 trad climb blends straightforward protection with a gripping vertical crux. Perfect for climbers ready to sharpen hand-jam technique amid Southern California’s mountain air."

House of Cards: A Classic 5.9 Trad Test on Cardmon Pinnacle

Carved into the rugged northwest face of Cardmon Pinnacle, the House of Cards route offers climbers an authentic slice of the San Bernardino Mountains' granite character. This single-pitch climb trails a bold, left-leaning hand crack that commands attention from the moment you arrive. The crack cuts sharply upward through textured rock, challenging your hand jams and finger locks with a vertical crux that demands precise technique and solid gear placements. The rock’s gritty surface adds a tactile dimension—the friction can be reassuring for grip but requires careful movement to avoid scrapes or slips. As you ascend, the crack’s varying widths invite a steady rhythm of protection placements, primarily accommodating cams up to 2.5 inches, so make sure your rack covers these sizes. Finishing this route means reaching a chain anchor that secures your descent, safely perched above the leafy sprawl of Children’s Forest below. The approach meanders through forested trails of Keller Peak, offering audible birdsong and the occasional rustle of wildlife, all framed by the crisp mountain air at an elevation that rewards you with sweeping views of the surrounding Running Springs area. House of Cards is a pure traditional climb—straightforward yet technical enough to keep even experienced climbers engaged. With a moderate 5.9 rating, it strikes a practical balance: accessible for those stepping up into crack climbing while still leaving room for a moment’s hesitation at the crux. The climb’s character is honest, without theatrics, making it an excellent introduction to mid-grade trad on granite in Southern California. Planning your visit? Timing your climb for early morning hours means cooler rock temperatures and quieter trails, especially in warmer months. Wear shoes with a snug fit and good edging capability, and bring sufficient hydration as the sun quickly warms exposed sections. While the approach is manageable, be prepared for loose rock near the base and a short scramble to the start. House of Cards greets you with sturdy, classic crack climbing that pushes your skills in a natural, unpretentious setting.

Climber Safety

The route has some gritty patches that can patchily reduce friction—move cautiously at the crux to avoid slips. Loose rock near the base and around the start demands a careful approach and helmet use. Chain anchors are solid but double-check sling reliability before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid hot afternoon rock.

Wear climbing shoes with precise edging for the vertical crux.

Bring a full rack up to 2.5 inches for secure gear placements.

Check for loose rock around the base before starting your climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating is generally accurate, presenting a sustained hand crack that tests crack climbing fundamentals without overreaching. The vertical crux feels crisp but fair, with good jams offering reliable upward progress once committed. Compared to other local 5.9 trad climbs, House of Cards leans slightly technical rather than purely power-focused, favoring climbers with solid crack technique.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with cams up to 2.5 inches is recommended. The route features primarily hand crack protection with reliable placements along the 40-foot pitch, finishing at a solid chain anchor for safe descent.

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Tags

left-leaning hand crack
vertical crux
granite
single pitch
traditional
southern california
5.9 trad