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Hot Wings: A Well-Protected Chimney Adventure in Sequoia & Kings Canyon

Fresno, California United States
chimney
trad
5.9
well-protected
multi-pitch
squeeze crux
bolted
sequoia
granite
Length: 220 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Hot Wings
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hot Wings offers a two-pitch trad climb through a chimney corridor just right of Green Crack. Well bolted and thoughtfully protected, it challenges climbers with sustained chimney moves and a memorable squeeze crux near the top."

Hot Wings: A Well-Protected Chimney Adventure in Sequoia & Kings Canyon

Carving your way up Hot Wings demands a steady rhythm and a sharp eye, rewardingly threading through one of the most secure chimneys in the Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park. Just right of the iconic Green Crack, this two-pitch trad climb offers more than just vertical mileage—it’s a tactile dance with the mountain’s uneven textures where decomposed rock near the base contrasts with solid holds above, challenging you to read the rock as much as move on it. Expect to start your journey on an accessible crack, where hands and feet find rhythm on sections easily protected with .5 to 4 inch gear. As you transition into the chimney, metal bolts offer assurance amid the twisting groove, zooming you upward through four carefully spaced anchors that keep both the exposure and the commitment feeling just right. The first pitch levels out on a face climb, balancing reachy moves with smooth protection and landing at a two-bolt anchor after 80 feet of varied climbing.

The second pitch kicks up the intensity with a sustained 5.9 rating, forcing you into tighter chimney moves punctuated by bolts protecting nearly every key move. Here, the chimney squeezes and shifts its personality, requiring deliberate positioning and solid footwork, especially nearing the final crux that feels close to a sport climb in style and commitment. This is a chimney that tests your ability to maintain composure while your body negotiates a complex squeeze. The technical demands highlight the value of carrying ample draws—13 or 14 recommended—plus a 3-inch piece for a tricky horizontal crack before clipping the last bolt. Once atop, look back to take in sweeping views of the park's rugged expanse, the kind of scenery that reminds you why you climb: for the moments suspended between earth and sky.

Getting on Hot Wings is straightforward for those familiar with the Green Crack area. The approach is short but gritty, moving through a blend of forest and granite slabs that reflect the park’s raw mountain story. Timing your ascent to avoid the midday sun will also help keep your hands dry and grips confident. A 60-meter rope is recommended for a safe and smooth rappel back to the ground, rounding out the experience with a well-planned exit.

Whether you’re ticking off a moderate trad route or looking for a solid chimney challenge, Hot Wings delivers with a balance of protection, technical interest, and setting. It’s a moderate grade climb, but don’t underestimate the sustained nature of the chimney moves or the mental focus required near the crux. For climbers ready to push into the 5.9 trad range with confident gear placements and a taste for chimney climbing, this route provides a memorable summit with reliable safety and a classic Sierra feel.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of decomposed rock sections near the lower chimney. Although bolts are plentiful, careful gear placements remain crucial. The squeeze crux requires controlled movement to prevent jams, and the rappel descent requires a full 60m rope to reach the base safely.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length220 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid climbing on hot, slippery rock under the midday sun.

Practice chimney technique to handle the squeeze crux efficiently.

Carry plenty of quickdraws; bolts are frequent but well-spaced.

Plan your rappel carefully—60m ropes will get you down safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Hot Wings leans toward a sustained challenge rather than a single peak crux, with a tight squeeze near the top that pushes your chimney technique. The grade feels true-to-rating, slightly stiff for those new to chimneys but rewarding for experienced trad climbers. Compared to other local routes in the Green Crack area, it offers a more bolt-protected experience, easing the mental game while maintaining solid technical demands.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad set from .5" to 4", complemented by 13–14 quickdraws and one 3" piece for a key horizontal crack near the top. A 60m rope is sufficient for a rappel descent.

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Tags

chimney
trad
5.9
well-protected
multi-pitch
squeeze crux
bolted
sequoia
granite