Rising boldly from the heart of Ophir Wall, Hot Wee Wee grabs your attention with its massive left-facing corner that cleaves the cliff’s center like a scar. The climb starts from a grassy slope beneath the towering wall, a subtle approach hinting at the challenge to come. The opening pitch demands little more than confident scrambling, often tackled unroped by those eager to move swiftly. But as you pick your way higher into the alcoves and angles that define the route, the climb quickly asserts itself. Smooth face moves and carefully threaded protection lead you into exposed, airy corners that reveal sweeping views across Colorado’s rugged Telluride/Norwood region.

Pitch two introduces the crux with a 5.9 face climb around a blank-looking corner into a small alcove. Choices abound here—either stick with the corner’s shell for sustained climbing or traverse right to easier but rope-drag-prone ground. The route’s natural flow unfolds as you gain a spacious ledge, offering a moment’s respite before pushing upward again. The commitment here is tangible; the rock demands respect, and the protection—while adequate—is best deployed with an eye for long runners to reduce drag.

Pitches three and four settle into a rhythm of steady 5.7 corner climbing, steadily weaving upward and left toward ledges where you can establish comfortable belays. These sections offer straightforward climbing, but the exposure and length keep the adrenaline flowing. The final pitch returns to a steeper 5.9 challenge that mixes offwidth and chimney moves before you top out the corner. From here, a short leftward traverse leads to anchors for rappelling. The descent itself deserves attention—two double-rope rappels over the adjacent Black Primo route lower you away from the wall safely but call for precise rigging.

Hot Wee Wee blends accessible approach with demanding climbing, all framed by one of Colorado’s prized climbing areas. The wall’s granite feels alive under hand and foot, and the position invites moments to pause and absorb the wide mountain air and sprawling terrain below. For trad climbers seeking a route that balances technical moves, sustained length, and solid protection, this is a worthy undertaking.

Plan your climb with a double set of cams and stoppers to cover the variable cracks. Bring plenty of long runners for minimizing rope drag on the traverses and corner systems. Approaching early in the day avoids afternoon heat and possible thunderstorms, a regular feature of the San Juan Mountains in summer. Footwear with sticky rubber and good edging ability will pay dividends here, especially on the delicate face pitches. With solid gear, clear headspace, and respect for the route’s steeper sections, Hot Wee Wee rewards climbers with an experience that is both invigorating and thoroughly memorable.