HomeClimbingHot Tub of Death

Hot Tub of Death Trad Climb in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
crack climb
small roof
desert rock
southwest face
trad gear
single pitch
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hot Tub of Death
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hot Tub of Death is a steep, varied 80-foot crack climb featuring a small roof that tests your technique and power. Set on a southwest face, this trad route in Joshua Tree offers a sun-soaked challenge perfect for climbers eager to sharpen crack skills amid breathtaking desert terrain."

Hot Tub of Death Trad Climb in Joshua Tree

Hot Tub of Death offers climbers a gripping introduction to the rugged granite walls of Joshua Tree National Park, where the desert sun coaxes the rock to warmth by late morning. This single-pitch, 80-foot trad route demands attention with its steep crack systems and a cheeky small roof that challenges both technique and nerve. The climb's southwest-facing wall allows the sun to slowly cast light and warmth on the rock face as the day unfolds, rewarding early risers with a cool start and inviting conditions as midday approaches.

From the trailhead, the approach carves a path through the stark desert landscape dotted with Joshua trees and sturdy creosote bushes, their resilience evident in the dry air. The rock itself feels alive, its rough texture providing friction under fingertips and feet alike. The crack varies in width, shifting from finger jams to hand-sized placements that keep climbers engaged and constantly adapting. The roof section introduces a brief but exciting crux, forcing a strategic sequence of moves that marries power and finesse.

Protection is straightforward: a standard rack suits the varied cracks well, but placement can be subtle in sections, requiring an attentive eye and careful gear selection. This climb is ideal for those comfortable with traditional protection yet eager to sharpen crack climbing skills in a scenic, high-desert environment.

Despite its playful name, Hot Tub of Death is no careless romp. The rock demands respect, and the approach, while direct, passes through exposed desert terrain where hydration and sun protection are essential. Climbing early or late in the day avoids the harshest sun, and the cooler air increases friction, making tricky hand jams feel more secure. On quieter days, the climb’s natural acoustics carry the sound of gear sliding and rhythmic breathing across the boulders, creating an intimate sense of place.

Joshua Tree itself stands as a vast outdoor gym, famous for crack climbs and unique formations, and this route embodies the spirit of exploration and self-reliance that defines the park. Whether you’re honing crack technique or seeking a memorable single-pitch challenge, Hot Tub of Death delivers a rewarding blend of physical demand and the stark beauty of the desert’s rocky outcrops.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the small roof area and ensure solid gear placements as the protection spots can be tight. Heat exposure is a real factor later in the day; plan your ascent to avoid prolonged sun on the southwest face and carry extra water on your approach.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start the climb mid-morning to avoid the early chill and before the full desert heat sets in.

Hydrate well before and after the climb—Joshua Tree’s dry air quickly saps moisture.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber for secure jams on rough granite.

Use sunblock and bring a hat; southwest aspects get warm quickly in the sun.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating on this climb reflects a solid technical challenge, especially with the small roof section that adds a crux demanding precise body positioning and power. While the grade is representative of the difficulty, some climbers may find the crack sizes moderately consistent, making it a reliable step up from 5.9 routes. Comparisons to other Joshua Tree trad routes place it as a moderate challenge but absolutely worth persistence for its engaging sustained moves.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with a range of cams for finger to hand-sized cracks. Gear placements require careful assessment, especially near the roof where protection spots tighten.

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Tags

crack climb
small roof
desert rock
southwest face
trad gear
single pitch