HomeClimbingHot Buttered Rump

Hot Buttered Rump: A Technical Chimney Challenge on Suicide Rock

Idyllwild, California United States
chimney
wide stemming
shaded route
trad gear
moderate 5.10
single pitch
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hot Buttered Rump
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hot Buttered Rump offers a clean, technical chimney climb on Suicide Rock, testing your footwork and body positioning along a flared right-facing corner. Its sustained moves and quality protection make it a rewarding challenge for trad climbers seeking a shaded, moderate 5.10a adventure."

Hot Buttered Rump: A Technical Chimney Challenge on Suicide Rock

Hot Buttered Rump invites climbers to test their chimney skills on one of Suicide Rock’s most distinct features—a wide, right-facing corner that demands deliberate movement and precise technique. This 150-foot, single-pitch trad route stands out for its clean rock and strikingly flared chimney, which feels alive under your hands and feet. The climb’s shape almost dares you to choose your own path: cling to the back of the chimney to tap into secure, well-protected seams, or venture onto the outside for wide stemming moves that reward balance and confidence. Serving up an uninterrupted sequence of demanding moves, this climb suits those who appreciate sustained technical climbing without dramatic overhangs or forced rests.

The route’s location on the shaded, north-facing wall ensures comfortable conditions throughout most of the day, a rarity that helps when planning a longer day on the rock in the California sun. Despite its modest star rating, Hot Buttered Rump holds its own as a compelling mid-5.10a challenge. It requires steady footwork and solid chimney technique rather than flashy flair to move efficiently. The rock quality here is excellent; the granite feels substantial and offers natural features for gear placements that are mostly secure but demand attention to detail.

Equipped primarily with wired nuts and a few larger cams, protection here rewards those willing to place thoughtfully. The chimney pinch and wide stemming sections provide multiple placements, but some pro sizes are rarer, so carrying a good range of nuts and medium cams is critical. This climb’s moderate length lends itself well to a half-day outing, with less than an hour approach from the Suicide Rock trailhead. The approach follows a well-trodden path through pine and cedar stands, with occasional glimpses of impressive vistas across the desert floor and distant peaks, preparing you mentally and physically for the technical demands ahead.

Climbers should prepare for crux sequences that test body positioning more than raw power, making this ideal for those looking to refine chimney moves and build endurance in a clean, straightforward setting. Expect to spend extra focus on foot placement and breathing through the sustained chimney system, which somewhat levels the playing field between climbers new to this style and seasoned chimney specialists. The descent is a simple walk off via the Escalator Trail, allowing for a smooth transition back to the trailhead without complicated rappelling.

For visitors seeking a climb that challenges technique over brute strength, Hot Buttered Rump is a refreshing break from the usual face climbs in the area. Shade and solid protection make it inviting almost year-round, particularly in warmer months when sun exposure elsewhere can sap energy quickly. Whether you’re adding this to a day of Suicide Rock classics or looking to sharpen chimney skills in a moderate 5.10 setting, this route balances pleasurable difficulty with pragmatic access and safety—making it a distinctive option in California’s desert granite.

Climber Safety

Watch your placements carefully in the wide sections where pro can be sparse and less obvious. The chimney rock is solid but demands precise technique to avoid slips, especially on smoothed edges. Plan for shaded conditions that can keep rock cooler but sometimes damp in early mornings.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of the natural shade that covers the route most of the day.

Focus on steady foot placements and slow, controlled chimney movements for efficiency.

Pack shoes with good edge support to manage wide stemming and chimney foot jams.

The approach trail is well-maintained but rocky—sturdy boots are recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels fair, with a consistent technical crux rather than isolated moves. The chimney’s flared shape adds complexity, but careful footwork and methodical pacing keep the difficulty approachable. Compared to nearby Suicide Rock classics, it presents a more sustained and technical experience without extreme exposure.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack of wired nuts and a handful of medium to larger cams to secure placements in the chimney’s back and wide stemming sections. Wired nuts are the primary protection with few larger pieces needed.

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Tags

chimney
wide stemming
shaded route
trad gear
moderate 5.10
single pitch