"Horseplay is a lively single-pitch trad climb on the Marble Caves’ Sunset Wall. It balances bolt-protected sections with crack climbing, delivering a technical challenge on textured granite just minutes from the Redwood Coast’s forests and shore."
Horseplay on the Marble Caves is a compact, focused climb that invites trad climbers to test their skills on the Redwood Coast’s rugged granite. Sitting on the Sunset Wall, this single-pitch route packs a surprising challenge into its 60 feet of vertical terrain. The approach to the line feels immediate—offering a chance to climb without committing an entire day away from other outdoor attractions. Here, the rock feels alive under your fingertips, with a cracked section providing solid jugs and technical moves between bolts that push your footwork and mental game.
The route bifurcates just beyond the third bolt—follow the bolt line to its final clip for a bolder .10d move, or veer right into a more straightforward juggy crack that sits closer to .10a. This flexibility makes Horseplay accessible yet engaging, encouraging climbers to pick their comfort level while staying close to the sun-warmed granite.
Protection is well thought out with five bolts spaced to balance security and adventure, including a key placement slot for a yellow TCU or a .3 Camalot between bolts three and four. The anchors are cold shut, reliable but requiring attention during your top-rope or lead hang. The rock’s texture is gritty with plenty of friction, typical of the redwood coast granite, demanding deliberate foot placements and steady rhythm.
Horseplay benefits from the coastal proximity—fresh ocean breezes temper the sun’s heat, while distant sound of crashing waves adds a natural soundtrack to your effort. Even with just a single pitch, this climb captures the essence of Redwood Coast’s climbing scene: intense but manageable, scenic but raw.
Expect a short walk-in that keeps things simple, allowing you to focus your energy on the climb. Best tackled in the cooler hours of morning or late afternoon when shade blankets the wall, Horseplay’s south-facing aspect means it can bake under midday sun, so timing your ascent can make the difference between solid performance and a sweaty struggle.
Gear up with a light rack emphasizing smaller cams and nuts to complement the fixed bolts while preparing for that crucial placement that earns you confidence for the crux section. Local knowledge suggests you approach with mindful conservation—this wall sees lighter traffic than some big-name spots, preserving both the rock and the quiet atmosphere.
After topping out, you can rappel from the fixed cold shut anchors or descend via a short walk-off to reconnect with the forested trail that started your day. Horseplay on Sunset Wall offers a concentrated dose of challenge and satisfaction—perfect for climbers who want to squeeze quality granite climbing into a Redwood Coast adventure without the fuss of long approaches or multi-pitch logistics.
Cold shut anchors require careful inspection before rappelling. The route’s protection is solid but take care with placements between bolts three and four, as the placement spot can feel thin—don’t rely solely on bolt clips.
Start early or late to avoid the midday sun on the south-facing wall.
Bring a small rack focusing on nuts and cams in small sizes.
Check anchor condition before your rappel; use a backup if uncertain.
Respect the light traffic to help preserve the rock and local environment.
Five bolts anchor the route, with key gear placement opportunities including a yellow TCU or .3 Camalot between bolts three and four. The cold shut anchors at the top are sturdy but require caution during rope management.
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