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Horse Play: A Compact Trad Challenge on Ophir Wall

Telluride, Colorado United States
right-facing corner
low roof
stemming
trad protection
single pitch
Colorado
Ophir Wall
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Horse Play
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Horse Play is a brisk, technical trad climb on Colorado’s Ophir Wall, inviting climbers to master stemming and low roof moves in a right-facing corner. Perfect as a focused one-pitch test or warm-up before tackling harder lines nearby."

Horse Play: A Compact Trad Challenge on Ophir Wall

Horse Play offers climbers a focused burst of movement on the Main Wall’s Ophir section, delivering a brief yet engaging test of traditional skills. Situated just right of the Tennis Shoe traverse and a cluster of demanding sport routes, this one-pitch climb grips with a right-facing corner that demands precision and balance through its low roof and stemming sequences. The line tugs you into a physical dance against the rock as you negotiate the corner’s angles, forcing creative footwork and steady hand jams. While the route stops at a secure 2-bolt anchor after roughly 60 feet, climbers looking to extend the adventure can take off upward on adjacent routes, offering options for a longer outing.

The approach to Horse Play is straightforward, tucked within the famous Ophir Wall near Telluride, Colorado, a playground famous for its steep cliffs and rugged alpine energy. The immediate setting offers sparse forest patches that shield the base from afternoon sun, creating a cool environment even in early summer. The rock itself presents well-formed cracks perfect for traditional protection, though it requires a precise rack to confidently place gear in variable seam sizes. Average star ratings reflect a niche appeal — ideal for those who appreciate technical stemming and corner climbing over sheer endurance.

Given the route’s brief length, it excels as a quick adventure or warm-up pitch on a climbing day packed with harder test pieces nearby. Timing can be key, as early sunlight hits the route mid-morning, warming the stone after chilly mornings, but the corner still holds enough shadow to keep hands from overheating. Climbers should come prepared with solid shoes designed for crack work, a standard trad rack emphasizing cams in smaller to medium sizes, and a system to rappel safely from the two-bolt anchor.

Despite its modest length, Horse Play doesn’t demand complacency. The low roof section challenges balance and introduces a subtle crux where stemming and body tension become critical. Careful attention to gear placement here reduces rope drag and unforseen swings on falls. And while the surrounding trails offer easy access, the approach traverses uneven ground that benefits from sturdy footwear and an eye for loose rock. Navigation is typically simple thanks to well-trodden paths, but always sensible to check local conditions ahead of your trip.

For those scouting the Ophir Wall area, blending Horse Play into a day’s climbing itinerary brings variety and a satisfying blend of technical tradition with the rugged Colorado high country atmosphere. Whether you’re aiming to sharpen crack skills or simply add a distinct pitch to your resume, this route offers an approachable yet tangible slice of alpine climbing adventure in Telluride’s shadow.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention when placing pro beneath the low roof, as poorly seated gear can increase the risk of falls. Also be mindful of loose rock around the base and approach trail, especially after wet weather.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach trails are uneven—wear sturdy shoes for better footing.

Mid-morning sun warms the route well; early starts can mean cool hands.

Check gear placements carefully on the low roof section to prevent rope drag.

Consider rappelling from the anchor for a controlled descent or link up with adjacent climbs.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Horse Play presents a slightly technical challenge that can feel firmer than the grade suggests due to the stemming moves and maneuvering beneath the low roof. Climbers familiar with nearby moderate trad climbs will find it a solid introduction to corner-focused techniques with a manageable crux sequence.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts for protected placements along the corner. The 2-bolt anchor at the top allows for a quick rappel or continuation onto nearby routes.

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Tags

right-facing corner
low roof
stemming
trad protection
single pitch
Colorado
Ophir Wall