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Horse d'Oeuvre: Linking Pony Express to Zip Code in Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
traverse
exposed
5.9
pocketed rock
multi-pitch
trad protection
eldorado canyon
Length: 140 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Horse d’Oeuvre stitches together Pony Express and Zip Code into one extended, exciting 5.9 trad pitch on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge. A wild traverse and confident climbing make this route a standout for those looking to push their grade comfort zone while soaking in canyon views."

Horse d'Oeuvre: Linking Pony Express to Zip Code in Eldorado Canyon

Horse d’Oeuvre offers a compelling slice of Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, wrapping together the Pony Express and Zip Code routes into one seamless 5.9 trad climbing experience. This longer, dynamic pitch moves with confident purpose, demanding both mental focus and steady footwork. The route’s highlight is a bold, exposed traverse that threads the needle between two well-loved lines, injecting a sense of flow and adventure that sets it apart from typical single-pitch climbs.

From the first clip, you’re greeted with rock solid edges and pocketed cracks, inviting hands and feet to move with precision. The surrounding stone feels alive under your fingertips—warm afternoon light casting shadows on textured holds, while the canyon below hums with wind and the distant rush of the South Boulder Creek. Vibrant pines cling to the ridge, their scent drifting up as you make your way across the traverse, each move calling for commitment and focus.

Though rated a moderate 5.9, Horse d’Oeuvre carries its own character; the climb is not a push-over. It demands placement skill with RPs and cams up to a #2 Camalot, rewarding careful protection strategies along its length. The rock quality supports confident placements but expect some sections where precise gear placement makes the difference between relaxed progress and heightened focus. Strong fingers meet technical feet on positive edges and occasional thin jams, balancing power and finesse.

This route draws climbers seeking a classic Eldo experience without pushing into hard territory. The West Ridge exposes you to the area’s hallmark granite spires and sweeping canyon views, heightening the sensory connection to this renowned climbing mecca. Whether you approach as a solid 5.9 climber ready to link pitches or as a multi-pitch enthusiast eager to savor every move, Horse d’Oeuvre delivers an engaging outing that pairs technical climbing with the rugged beauty of Boulder’s backyard.

Before you start, plan for a mid-morning or late afternoon climb to avoid the harsh midday sun on the exposed ridge. The approach is straightforward but exposed, descending or ascending through mixed forest and scrub oak that gets pleasantly lively with birdsong and breezes. Carry enough water, wear shoes with aggressive edging, and bring a rack including RPs and cams to #2 Camalot. Helmets are a must here — rockfall is a realistic hazard on this busy wall.

Horse d’Oeuvre bridges two iconic lines into a textured, moderately challenging pitch. It challenges your movement and gear judgment against some of Eldorado’s finest granite scenery, combining solid climbing with unequivocal exposure and vista. It’s a must-do for climbers looking to expand their West Ridge repertoire with a route that tests skill while letting the canyon’s ancient stone speak for itself.

Climber Safety

This route’s exposed traverse can catch climbers off guard; stay deliberate on placements and maintain three points of contact. Loose rock and occasional fall potential near ledges mean helmets are essential. The approach and descent include some uneven terrain—watch for slippery footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Avoid midday sun by climbing in mid-morning or late afternoon for cooler conditions and better grip.

Wear shoes with good edging capability to manage thin jams and technical feet.

Carry a full rack including RPs for smaller placements and cams up to #2 Camalot for larger cracks.

Helmet recommended due to potential rockfall on exposed and busy climbs.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade on Horse d’Oeuvre feels true to its difficulty but leans toward the moderate side for Eldorado’s style. The crux centers on the traverse where sustained technical moves and commitment add to the challenge. Compared to other local 5.9s, this route demands precise gear placements and balance, making it slightly stiffer than straightforward crack climbs but accessible within the grade’s typical range.

Gear Requirements

Route requires traditional gear with RPs and cams up to a #2 Camalot. Take care to place protection in pockets and cracks to protect the longer traverse section effectively.

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Tags

traverse
exposed
5.9
pocketed rock
multi-pitch
trad protection
eldorado canyon