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Horse Chaser: A Raw 5.9 R/X Challenge on Ophir Wall

Telluride, Colorado USA
R/X rating
exposed
trad gear
short pitch
technical face
runouts
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Horse Chaser
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Horse Chaser demands commitment—a sharp 5.9 R/X trad route on Ophir's Main Wall. With limited gear and exposed moves, this compact 85-foot climb challenges your skill while rewarding climbers with sweeping San Juan views."

Horse Chaser: A Raw 5.9 R/X Challenge on Ophir Wall

Horse Chaser stakes its claim on the Main Wall of Ophir as a brief but uncompromising test of traditional climbing mettle. Starting roughly 20 feet left of the prominent right-leaning corner shared with Smokin’ Toasters, you confront a black-streaked face that offers limited rests and demands precise gear placements. This 85-foot, single-pitch route is a measured blend of dry tooling and bold moves where protection is minimal and judicious thinking is rewarded. The rock here carries a weathered patina, rough under fingertips with enough edges and smears to keep the sequence fluid but never forgiving. As you climb upward, the wall feels alive—its dark veins seem to pulse, daring you to commit despite the sparse gear. The final section converges at a fixed anchor, relief after a climb where hesitation slows progress and confidence accelerates it.

Located near Telluride, Colorado, the approach to Horse Chaser is straightforward: access Ophir via Norwood, making your way to the Main Wall, where the sun filters through juniper and spruce, casting shifting shadows that mark your ascent’s timeline. The brevity of the pitch syncs well with a half-day climbing plan, but the real challenge lies in mental focus to manage runouts and the R/X rating’s consequences. Given the route’s exposed nature, well-fitted shoes and a sturdy helmet are essentials; the risk of gear slippage and fall potential is higher here than on more protected climbs. Timing your climbs for the cooler hours prevents overheating while ensuring good friction on the blackened limestone face.

This route’s gear is sparse, making it critical to bring a smart rack with a focus on medium-sized cams and smaller nuts. Avoid overpacking; lugging unnecessary protection adds weight without safety dividend. Given the route’s R/X classification, a clean, confident climbing style is necessary. Horse Chaser is ideal for climbers eager to test their mental nerves and technical moves on a route that’s as much about strategy as strength.

Despite the low average rating among users, this climb’s character appeals to those who appreciate raw exposure coupled with demanding gear placements. The setting—high on the rugged Ophir Wall—offers sweeping views of the surrounding San Juan peaks and wild, open skies. This is not a climb for beginners or the faint-hearted but an invitation to stake your claim on a distinctive Colorado trad challenge with bite and personality.

Climber Safety

This route’s sparse protection and exposure require unwavering attention. Loose or trickily placed gear means falls can be serious. The black-streaked wall sometimes holds slick spots—test every hold and avoid climbing after rain. Always wear a helmet due to potential rockfall.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Approach early morning to enjoy cooler wall temperatures and better grip on the blackened limestone.

Pack light but bring medium cams and smaller nuts; bulky gear won't aid your safety here.

Wear a helmet—fall potential and rockfall risk increase with sparse gear and the exposed nature of this climb.

Double-check your anchor at the finish; although fixed, it serves as your only secure refuge after a bold climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R/X
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade carries its weight here, pushed harder by the R/X factor that makes every move feel consequential. Protection is scarce, demanding a mental edge beyond physical skill. Compared to other local 5.9 climbs, Horse Chaser feels stiffer since the risk elevates every technical sequence, rewarding bold, steady progress.

Gear Requirements

Expect minimal gear placements with a rack focusing on medium cams and small nuts. Protection is tricky and limited, emphasizing the need for precise placements and careful route reading to minimize runouts.

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Tags

R/X rating
exposed
trad gear
short pitch
technical face
runouts