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Horny Heroes from Hollywood at Lord of the Flies Rock

Running Springs, California United States
trad
single pitch
technical slab
small cams
San Bernardino
5.10a
two bolt anchor
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Horny Heroes from Hollywood
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Horny Heroes from Hollywood carves a sharp, technical 50-foot line on Lord of the Flies Rock’s granite face. With a demanding low crux and a clean slab finish, this 5.10a trad route offers a rewarding climb framed by the rugged San Bernardino landscape."

Horny Heroes from Hollywood at Lord of the Flies Rock

Horny Heroes from Hollywood offers climbers a focused, punchy pitch that challenges with sustained 5.10a moves on solid granite. Situated on Lord of the Flies Rock in the San Bernardino Mountains, this route stands out for its gritty low crux that demands careful footwork and precise body positioning. From the ground, you begin by navigating a powerful boulder problem that acts as the gateway to the climb’s tougher moves—a brief but intense sequence that sets the rhythm for what’s ahead.

Above the initial challenge, the route eases into a steeper slab section marked by two well-placed bolts. The rock here is firm, with subtle holds that reward subtle technique rather than brute strength. Climbers will find this slab engaging, requiring a confident balance between movement control and gear management. A high first bolt secures the climb’s early technical moves, while a second bolt perched higher on the face anchors the end of the crux section, providing a safety net on steeper terrain.

The finish leads to a two-bolt anchor system suitable for rappelling or lowering, giving a straightforward and safe descent. This single-pitch climb stretches about 50 feet, making it an excellent choice for climbers looking to sharpen their technical trad skills in a less crowded setting than more popular San Bernardino routes.

The setting itself is rugged and quiet, with Lord of the Flies Rock rising sharply against the skyline, offering sweeping views of Keller Peak and the surrounding Running Springs area. The approach is moderate, threading through dry chaparral and rocky terrain typical of the region. It’s best tackled on a cool morning or late afternoon when the sun’s angle softens, avoiding the midday heat that can bake the rock surface.

Gear-wise, the route’s protection relies on two main bolts and a bolt anchor, but climbers typically augment the setup with traditional gear placements around the base and midway through the slab. Given the nature of the climb, bring a standard trad rack with a focus on smaller cams and nuts for tricky placements near the boulder crux. Quickdraws for the bolt clips and slings for runners are indispensable here.

Rhythm, precision, and mental focus come together on Horny Heroes, making it a rewarding challenge that cuts through San Bernardino’s granite with directness and style. Whether you’re brushing up on lead climbs or craving a solid trad pitch with a bit of bite, this route provides a compact test of skill set against the wilderness backdrop of Southern California’s mountain range.

Climber Safety

The low crux involves delicate footwork on a slightly overhanging section; loose footholds can be a hazard. Always check rock stability on the approach and near the bolts, and be mindful that the anchoring bolts are exposed—double-check placements before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on the sun-exposed rock face.

Bring a light trad rack focused on smaller cams and nuts for additional placements.

Approach with sturdy hiking shoes suited for loose, rocky terrain through chaparral.

Use runners on bolts to reduce rope drag on the slab section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Graded at 5.10a, Horny Heroes doesn’t overreach but demands clean, technical climbing—especially at the initial boulder problem that carries a distinct crux feel. Compared to nearby sport routes, it blends bolt protection with carefully placed trad gear, requiring greater mental control and efficient movement.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by two bolts and finishes at a two-bolt anchor suitable for rappel or lowering. Additional traditional gear placements are possible, especially near the initial boulder crux—carry small cams and nuts combined with quickdraws and slings to handle bolt clips and tricky placements.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
technical slab
small cams
San Bernardino
5.10a
two bolt anchor