5.9, Trad
Twentynine Palms
California ,United States
"Horny Corner invites climbers into a gritty 60-foot trad climb on Echo Cove’s South Face. Featuring technical hand jams, demanding offwidth sections, and a sharp crux move near the top, it’s a practical test framed by Joshua Tree's iconic desert scenery."
Horny Corner stands as an inviting challenge carved into the South Face of Echo Cove within the expansive Joshua Tree National Park. This 60-foot single-pitch climb draws you into a rugged dance of hand jams, offwidth sections, and stemming that tests both technique and resolve. From the moment you set foot at its base, the rock’s textured dihedral calls out, its rough edges promising friction and grit, while the surrounding desert air carries a dry warmth that seeps into your skin, grounding the experience in this stark, spacious wilderness.
The route begins on the left side of the R.M.L. flake, where fingers find a welcoming groove and hands slot naturally to secure each upward move. The corner demands balance and body tension, coaxing you to lean in and trust the holds. As you ascend, the feature expands into an offwidth section—the kind of crack that encourages creativity, requiring you to wedge your body with precision and patience. At the midpoint, a subtle transition leads you to an arete guarded by a single bolt, a tension point where the climbing sharpens. Here, a steep face move culminates the climb, serving as its true crux—a test of control and commitment before the finish.
Protection on Horny Corner is straightforward but demands readiness: a standard rack complemented by the sole bolt embedded near the top. The rock’s texture grits against gear placements, making secure pro placements essential. Your shoes, ideally sticky with solid edging capability, will grip the stone’s generous pockets and smears.
Approaching the climb is an adventure of its own. The approach trail through Joshua Tree’s sprawling desert landscape twists through scrub and scattered shade, a gentle reminder to pack ample water and sun protection before you set out. The climb’s south-facing aspect means morning ascents offer relief from the desert sun, while afternoons call for swift moves or early descent. Finished climbs are best retraced via a well-marked trail that keeps you clear of the park's abundant natural hazards.
Whether you’re stepping into trad climbing for the first time or looking to sharpen your offwidth skills, Horny Corner offers a perfect blend of practical challenge and evocative desert climbing. It’s a climb rooted in technical demands but framed by the timeless openness of Joshua Tree—a place where every hold feels alive, and the desert itself feels ready to test your every move.
The route features a lone bolt near the top, but most protection relies on solid placements in variable offwidth and stemming sections. Take care ensuring gear is reliable before committing to moves above protection. Desert heat and loose rock around the approach warrant caution, especially in summer months.
Start early to avoid strong afternoon sun exposure on this south-facing wall.
Bring a full trad rack focusing on mid-size cams for tricky offwidth placements.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for secure edging on small pockets and smears.
Carry plenty of water and sun protection for the desert approach and climb.
One bolt supplementing a standard trad rack is sufficient. Expect to place gear actively throughout the offwidth and dihedral sections, with emphasis on solid placements just below the bolt-protected crux.
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