"Horizonte de Estrellas offers four engaging sport pitches up the south face of Peña de Bernal, where steady technical climbing meets sunlit exposure. The route rewards focused movement and offers solid protection, making it a prime choice for climbers seeking a practical yet scenic ascent in central Mexico."
Horizonte de Estrellas carves a compelling path up the sun-drenched south face of Peña de Bernal, one of Mexico’s most striking monoliths. This four-pitch sport route offers climbers a well-balanced challenge that blends technical moves with solid protection and rewarding exposure. As you step off the main hiking trail onto this wall, the slate-gray rock immediately demands attentive footwork and smooth movement, while the surrounding landscape stretches out in broad views of Querétaro’s rolling hills and distant mountain ridges.
The climb begins about 60 feet uphill from the classic Bernalina route, marked by bolts with noticeable silver hangers that gleam subtly against the rock. Pitch one introduces a steady rhythm—follow the bolts for 25 to 30 meters along slightly overhanging terrain rated around 5.8 to 5.9. The holds are positive enough for confident foot placements, but the vertical frames test body tension and balance. As you ascend, a thin breeze often hums through the rock walls, carrying with it the scent of dry pine and sunwarmed earth.
Pitch two shifts your line slightly right, guiding you into a black streak groove that serves as both a visual marker and a technical feature. This section, rated similarly at 5.8/5.9, demands a calm approach to edging and using the groove’s subtle texture. The groove feels alive beneath your fingers, as if the rock itself invites you to find the rhythm of each move. The anchor at the top of this pitch is a welcome rest on a small ledge.
The third pitch wraps back left toward a large, vegetated ledge. This holds an anchor and affords a moment to soak in your surroundings--look out for the interplay of sunlight and shadow that shifts as the day passes, painting the face with warm gold and cool gray. This pitch keeps the 5.8/5.9 grade, but the steady placement of bolts keeps the confidence high. Climbers who prefer flow can combine the first two or second and third pitches to save time and maintain momentum.
Beyond the technical pitches, the ascent continues with a fourth pitch that veers slightly left onto easier ground. This 20 to 25-meter stretch leads to a broad terrace beneath the summit formation—an ideal spot to pause and appreciate the climb’s rewards. For those ready to push to the summit, you can link up with the Bernalina or neighboring routes for a final 50-meter push rated 5.6.
Protection on Horizonte de Estrellas is straightforward: the route is fully bolted with well-spaced anchors every 20 to 25 meters. Bringing 10 to 14 quickdraws allows you to clip efficiently and combine pitches as needed. Climbers with a 60-meter rope will find rappelling options from the large vegetated ledge for the first three pitches practical and secure, providing a clear exit strategy if needed.
The south-facing wall catches the sun early and holds warmth late into the afternoon—ideal for cooler months or early morning starts in summer to avoid midday heat. Approaching the route from the established hiking trail offers solid footing through dry dirt and sparse vegetation, with access coordinates centered around 20.74833 latitude and -99.94637 longitude to guide your GPS.
Horizonte de Estrellas suits climbers who enjoy sustained moderate climbing with enough variety to engage both mind and muscles. It holds a comfortable rating for those who have experience on routes around 5.9 but may feel slightly easier for seasoned climbers familiar with Red Rock’s Black Velvet Wall. The line’s exposure and the wide open vista growing with each step remind you that climbing here is as much about embracing the environment as it is about conquering the rock.
This route demands respect for its seasonal conditions—sun intensity rises sharply in summer, and the rock can become slick after rain. Loose vegetation on the ledges requires careful foot placement, especially when setting up anchors or transitioning between pitches. Logistic preparation, such as packing water, sun protection, and sturdy footwear, cannot be overstated for this climb.
Altogether, Horizonte de Estrellas stands as a rewarding option on Peña de Bernal’s south face—a measured adventure that opens a window onto striking Mexican landscapes while delivering an accessible yet stimulating climbing experience. Whether combining pitches for flow or savoring each belay, this route holds a balanced promise: steady challenge, reliable gear, and a memorable connection with an iconic rock face.
Beware of loose vegetation on ledges, especially near anchors on pitch three; careful placement of feet and careful clipping are important. The sun exposes climbers to strong heat, so hydration and sun protection are critical. Rappelling requires a 60m rope and attention to rope management to avoid dragging on rough edges.
Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on the south-facing wall.
Bring at least 14 quickdraws for clipping flexibility and pitch combinations.
Use sticky rubber shoes with solid edging for the slabby face sections.
Check weather forecast carefully—rock can be slippery after rain.
Fully bolted with silver hangers; anticipate 10-14 quickdraws. Anchors are spaced roughly every 20-25 meters, supporting pitch combinations. Single 60m rope can rappel first three pitches from the large vegetated ledge.
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