Adventure Collective

Hoodgie Wall - Classic Slab Climbing in the Alabama Hills

Lone Pine, California
slab
north-facing
single pitch
good for beginners
quick approach
Alabama Hills
classic routes
Length: 60-80 ft
Type: Trad | Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Alabama Hills Recreation Area
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hoodgie Wall delivers crisp, north-facing slab climbing on solid stone, with approachable classics and a serene setting in the heart of Alabama Hills. Easy access, forgiving movement, and prime conditions make it perfect for both relaxed sessions and skill-building days out."

Hoodgie Wall - Classic Slab Climbing in the Alabama Hills

Striking out into California’s Alabama Hills, the Hoodgie Wall emerges as a compelling target for anyone drawn to clean, adventurous slab climbing. This free-standing crag is instantly recognizable with its smooth, north-facing apron and a handful of striking east-facing routes—each promising something a little bit different. At 4,771 feet, the air here is brisk, and the rock catches the morning light, casting sharp shadows that trace the contours of every hold and ripple.

Your approach starts with a sense of anticipation: turn left just before Movie Road bends sharply to the right, then continue about 300 yards. Ahead, the landscape opens up as you arrive at the Meatloaf Campsite, famous locally for an eccentric music video filmed beneath its broad overhanging slab. The Hoodgie Wall itself stands just south of the parking area—a towering slab begging for exploration, with everything set against the wild, brooding backdrop of the Eastern Sierra.

The Hoodgie Wall experience is equal parts inviting and technical. The routes here are mostly single pitch, offering accessible yet nuanced challenges that teach respect for slab technique. Lines like Leonosphere (5.7), Hoodgie (5.7), and the appropriately named Original Route (5.7) all clock in as approachable for strong beginner and intermediate climbers, while Ankles Away (5.8) ups the ante with a more delicate dance across tiny edges. Each of these climbs has gained classic status for their engaging movement and quality stone—expect sequences that demand precise footwork, balance, and a steady mind.

Weather plays its own role on this north-facing slab. Cool shade dominates for much of the day as the wall’s orientation shelters climbers from the relentless California sun, making midmorning and late afternoon prime times during the spring and fall. The brisk air and consistently moderate temps let you focus on foot placement instead of fighting off heat exhaustion.

The crag’s location in the Alabama Hills brings with it the landscape’s signature surreal boulders and sweeping open vistas, while the isolation of the Meatloaf Campsite sets the scene for a day of pure climbing focus. With the routes just steps from your vehicle and plenty of space to spread out, Hoodgie Wall is both an ideal destination crag and a peaceful getaway for small groups and solo climbers alike.

If you’re here for the first time, you’ll find the movement straightforward but the sequences revealing—especially as you adjust to the quirks of friction climbing. The climbing is generally friendly at the given grades, with little sandbagging compared to some infamous California slabs, meaning that if you lead 5.7 or 5.8 elsewhere, you’ll find these routes challenging but fair.

All things considered, Hoodgie Wall is a must-visit for anyone looking to sample the best of Alabama Hills’ slab climbing. The rock is reliable, the scenery arresting, and the lines are rewarding—whether you’re chasing your first true slab lead or seeking mellow classics to close out a Sierra day. Camping at Meatloaf offers a true climber’s retreat, with crisp mornings, great company, and rock just a stone’s throw away. Take your time on the approach, soak in the quiet, and prepare for a day where every move counts.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose stones at the base and on ledges—especially after wet weather when rock might shift. Always check anchor and bolt integrity before committing to a descent.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Sport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60-80 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early for the best shade and quietest atmosphere.

Bring a picnic—Meatloaf Campsite is perfect for a midday break.

Stable approach shoes help with uneven ground around the crag.

Double-check anchors before lowering or rappelling, particularly after storms.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Hoodgie Wall’s established routes are generally true to grade, without the infamous 'stiff' reputation of some California slabs. Most climbers will find 5.7 and 5.8 lines here approachable and fair, making the wall a confidence-boosting environment for building lead skills or dialing in slab technique. Comparable to other Alabama Hills moderates, the area rewards precise movement and a cool head.

Gear Requirements

Most lines at Hoodgie Wall are well-protected with modern hardware. Standard sport rack for bolts is adequate; for trad routes, a single rack from small to medium cams will cover most placements. Helmets are recommended thanks to some loose blocks at the base, and approach shoes help with the short, rocky approach.

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Tags

slab
north-facing
single pitch
good for beginners
quick approach
Alabama Hills
classic routes