Adventure Collective

Homage at Dead Horse Crag: A Ground-Up Classic in Glenwood Canyon

Glenwood Springs, Colorado United States
trad gear
single pitch
roof move
crack climbing
bolted anchor
Glenwood Canyon
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Homage
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Homage at Dead Horse Crag offers a concise but demanding traditional climb with a mix of bolts and gear placements. A powerful first move over a roof sets the tone for this Glenwood Canyon classic, rewarding those who value grounded, hands-on climbing experiences."

Homage at Dead Horse Crag: A Ground-Up Classic in Glenwood Canyon

Homage stands as a rugged invitation to climbers eager to connect with the roots of traditional climbing in Glenwood Canyon. Positioned on Dead Horse Crag, this route traces a direct, practical line that demands focus and respect. The climb begins with a bold move off the ground—after clipping the first bolt, you launch into a powerful mantle over a roof, testing your upper body and commitment right out of the gate. The rock here is firm, but not faultless; the texture offers just enough friction, a steady handshake between climber and stone that requires earnest foot placement.

Beyond the roof, the climb opens to a sizable shelf, offering a brief moment to collect your breath before locking in protection. The route blends traditional gear placements with a couple of strategic bolts for peace of mind—cams from tiny sizes up to a robust #5 Camalot slot into horizontal cracks with reassuring security.

The finale takes you right of another roof through a wide crack where gear placements grow plentiful before topping out on a ledge equipped with a two-bolt anchor. The combination of bolt protection and traditional placements makes this route approachable for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills while trusting in fixed gear where it counts.

Dead Horse Crag itself lies roughly 15 minutes from Glenwood Springs, unfolding within the sweeping Glenwood Canyon. The area offers a fresh mountain air punctuated by the distant rush of the Colorado River molding the valley below. It’s a blend of exposed walls and forested approaches that heighten focus and frame the climb with a tangible wilderness atmosphere.

When planning your trip, timing is key. Sunny mornings bathe the face in warm light, perfect for cool spring and fall ascents. The rock heats up later in the day, which can test grip and stamina. Footwear should combine precision with comfort, as the approach trail carries loose scree and roots that demand steady footing. Hydration and minimal yet efficient rack setup pay off here—carry camalots in a full range but lean on mid-sized gear for the bulk of placements.

Homage’s 50 feet of vertical climbing packs a potent sequence of moves into a compact pitch. This route is a nod to those who appreciate climbing’s hands-on heritage, offering access to a piece of Glenwood Canyon’s climbing chronicle without unnecessary flash. It’s a climb that rewards patience and solid technique, with enough variety to keep the senses alert from start to finish.

Climber Safety

The start involves committing moves off the ground with limited gear before the first bolt—climbers should be confident with roof mantles and prepared for potential pendulum falls. Loose scree on the approach requires careful footing to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach involves a short scramble over loose scree—solid hiking shoes recommended.

Morning ascents offer ideal temperatures and sun exposure.

Clip the first bolt carefully before making the mantle over the roof.

Double-check cam placements in the wide crack for added security before committing to the top section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Homage sits comfortably in the moderate range but carries a stiff crux with the initial roof mantle that demands power and control. Unlike some softer 5.9s, this route tests your body tension early, and the wide crack near the top requires solid gear placement skills. Climbers familiar with nearby routes like 'Kor’s Classic' will find a kinship here but with a more straightforward protection setup.

Gear Requirements

Two bolts on route with a chain anchor at the top. Bring a complete cam set ranging from tiny sizes to a #5 Camalot for secure placements, especially for the wide crack section near the anchor.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Homage and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad gear
single pitch
roof move
crack climbing
bolted anchor
Glenwood Canyon