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Holey Moley at Raven Rocks North Face

Raven Rocks, California United States
sport climbing
high desert
technical face
pocket climbing
crystal dike
single pitch
5.10a
exposed
good for spring and fall
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Holey Moley
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Holey Moley offers a focused 90-foot sport climb on Raven Rocks’ North Face, threading steep huecos and a striking crystal-studded dike. This technical route blends precise movement with solid protection, perfect for climbers seeking a high desert challenge with rewarding views."

Holey Moley at Raven Rocks North Face

Holey Moley carves a compelling line up the North Face of Raven Rocks, offering climbers a sharp blend of technical sport climbing and a distinctive locale that rewards precision and persistence. Situated just left of the imposing formation known as The Raven, this 90-foot route threads its way up steep huecos that challenge both grip and composure. From the first move, the climb demands attention: the blunt arete is punctuated with large pockets that invite finger locks and delicate jams, navigating past three bolts that guard the initial vertical section. Climbers are met with a ledge mid-route that offers a brief moment to recalibrate before the sequence shifts to a left-facing corner, where the angle softens slightly into a ramp containing a sizeable hueco almost daring you forward.

The crux unfolds as you step left onto a tiny ledge, requiring balance and trust in your footholds before moving right to a horizontal dike studded with prominent crystals. This section tests fingertip strength and body positioning, carving a distinct rhythm out of technical face moves. Above the bulge near the dike, the rock eases just enough to release tension as you surmount to the anchor, a shared chain with The Raven route, signaling the end of a relentless yet rewarding pitch.

Approach to Holey Moley is straightforward but demands preparedness; the high desert environment requires keen awareness of hydration needs and sun exposure. Climbing in the cooler hours is advised both to protect rock quality and maintain energy through the sustained physical demands. Modern sport bolting provides solid protection through all pitch sections, though rope drag can become a factor given the route’s length and bolt spacing—longer draws and extensions, particularly around the fourth and sixth bolts (often referred to as chicken bolts), make the ascent smoother.

Raven Rocks' North Face itself offers a rugged and stark beauty—sunbaked angles, textured rock adorned with clusters of crystal pockets, and distant desert vistas that stretch across California’s High Desert. While the rock demands focus and technical skill, the climb’s setting rewards with a palpable sense of solitude and connection to the elemental landscape. Beginners should approach this route with respect for its borderline 5.10a rating, while veterans will appreciate the subtle moves and varied features. From start to finish, Holey Moley balances confident challenge with commanding natural grace.

Gear up with a standard sport rack focused on quickdraws, and remember that the shared anchor requires coordinated communication if parties overlap. Descending typically involves a straightforward rap from fixed chains, making a swift and safe retreat once the summit is reached. This route is a perfect fit for climbers looking for a high desert adventure where technical pockets meet practical protection and a vivid landscape makes every move count.

Climber Safety

While the bolts are well-placed, the route’s long length combined with the blunt arete can cause rope drag if draws aren’t extended properly. The area is also exposed to intense sun and heat, so climbers should be prepared for rapid dehydration and protect against sunburn. Approach trail and descent routes can be slippery with loose scree in places — exercise caution when moving to and from the climb.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid the high desert heat.

Bring plenty of water; dehydration can set in quickly in this exposed terrain.

Use longer draws between bolts 4 and 6 to minimize rope drag on the blunt arete.

Check anchors carefully; the chain is shared with The Raven and can be busy on peak days.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Holey Moley presents a sustained technical challenge that feels true to grade with pockets and face moves defining the effort. The crux at the horizontal dike requires precise footwork and finger strength but doesn’t push into higher difficulty, making the rating feel accurate rather than soft. Compared to other routes in the area, it’s a notch above entry-level sport climbs, suitable for those comfortable with sustained vertical terrain and technical sequences.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by 12 bolts with a shared chain anchor featuring The Raven. To manage rope drag on this long pitch, use longer draws especially on the fourth and sixth bolts — known locally as chicken bolts — for smoother clipping and movement.

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Tags

sport climbing
high desert
technical face
pocket climbing
crystal dike
single pitch
5.10a
exposed
good for spring and fall