Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingHole in the Wall Gang

Hole in the Wall Gang: Sport Climbing on P-Funkamerika Dome

Lee Vining, California USA
sport climbing
single pitch
granite scoops
clip crux
moderate grade
Sierra climbing
desert edge
quiet approach
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hole in the Wall Gang
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hole in the Wall Gang is a focused 50-foot sport climb threading solid granite scoops and huecos on P-Funkamerika Dome. Its straightforward bolted line challenges climbers with technical moves and a tricky crux clip, perfect for those sharpening sport climbing skills in a remote Sierra setting."

Hole in the Wall Gang: Sport Climbing on P-Funkamerika Dome

Hole in the Wall Gang offers a straightforward yet dynamic 50-foot sport climb that carves its way across the rugged granite face of P-Funkamerika Dome, perched in the less-traveled reaches of the Sagehen Summit Area. This route threads a sequence of scoops, huecos, and patina flakes, each section etched by weather and time, creating natural handholds that demand both precision and confidence. The line is protected by seven bolts, thoughtfully spaced to guide the climber through a rhythm of steady moves, culminating at a roomy scoop where a three-bolt anchor awaits.

The granite itself tells a quiet story — cool to the touch, textured with slick patina, and riddled with pockets that dare you upward. As you ascend, the rock’s character is a companion: gritty and weathered, challenging your grip while the sun alternates through shafts of late morning warmth. The crux centers on the clip at the chains; for many climbers, reaching this anchor demands a well-calculated dynamic move or a stretch from a large scoop below. Those on the taller side may find this less daunting, clipping from a stable stance.

The approach to the climb is an essential part of the experience. Located within the Eastern Hills of the Sierra Eastside, the trail skirts through sparse sagebrush and winds over rocky footing, set against a backdrop of expansive high desert views. The area remains relatively quiet, offering a serene backdrop where the surrounding ridgetops are punctuated by wind and the quiet hum of distant wilderness. Expect a short, moderate hike over uneven terrain to reach the base, with GPS coordinates providing reliable access.

Gear requirements are simple yet specific. Seven quickdraws are sufficient to protect the route safely, emphasizing smooth clipping and flow rather than complex gear management. The rock quality is robust, though the presence of patina makes foot placements deliberate and sometimes slippery. This route suits climbers looking to sharpen their sport climbing technique with its moderate length and focused challenge.

Seasonal timing affects both comfort and safety. Mid-spring through early fall delivers the best conditions, with the wall catching morning sun and offering some afternoon shade as temperatures rise. Wind can sweep through the upper reaches, so layering and hydration are critical companions.

Local beta highlights an unfinished bolt line to the right, hinting at future possibilities for those exploring beyond. In the meantime, Hole in the Wall Gang stands solid as a concise and rewarding experience that balances technical skill with straightforward movement. After topping out, climbers will appreciate a mindful descent, typically downclimbing to easy terrain or taking advantage of well-placed anchors for a single rappel back to the base, where the desert silence invites reflection on a climb well done.

Climber Safety

Watch footing closely on the patina flakes, which can be slippery especially when damp or shaded. The anchor area involves a challenging clip—take time to secure your position before committing to the chain. Also, the descent requires either a safe downclimb or reliable rappel, so be prepared with proper gear and double-check your rigging.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Sagehen Summit trailhead for the most direct access.

Bring shoes with sticky rubber; patina flakes can reduce friction unexpectedly.

Plan to climb in mid-morning to catch the warming granite while avoiding afternoon heat.

Be prepared for a short rappel or downclimb from the anchor; double-check gear before descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels true to its grade with a compact sequence of technical moves centered on hand and foot precision. The crux move to clip the chains adds an extra layer of effort that will test climbers’ reach and positioning. Compared to other Sierra Eastside sport climbs, this line is approachable but demands focused attention on footwork due to patina surfaces.

Gear Requirements

Seven quickdraws cover the route fully; the bolts are placed for smooth movement but require careful clips especially on the crux move to the anchor.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Hole in the Wall Gang and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
granite scoops
clip crux
moderate grade
Sierra climbing
desert edge
quiet approach