"Hold My Graphite challenges climbers with a sharp opening crux on a south arete, followed by solid 5.7-5.8 climbing and a thrilling final arete finish. This single-pitch sport climb in Colorado’s Devil's Head offers dynamic, exposed moves with reliable protection and sweeping views of the South Platte area."
Hold My Graphite offers an immediate test of skill and focus right from the first clip, located on the right side of the south arete at Devil's Head, South Platte, Colorado. The climb opens with a short but sharp crux—those opening moves demand precise footwork and confident handholds, setting the tone for the entire 100-foot route. After clearing this initial challenge, the rock eases into a series of moves rated between 5.7 and 5.8, rewarding steady rhythm and balanced technique on solid, featured stone.
The route unfolds over three distinct sections that keep the experience fresh and engaging. The first 45 feet lead you to a small ledge, where brief rest is earned but not taken lightly: the rock is exposed and the air crisp, offering a sweeping sense of altitude and adventure. Following this, a fun dihedral seam invites climbers to engage with the natural shape of the wall, challenging your body positioning as you ascend to another ledge.
The final stretch shifts focus to an intriguing arete marked by three bolts. This section pushes climbers to maintain technique under exposure, as the vertical edge leans into a subtle overhang with well-protected moves to a solid anchor stand. The anchor itself provides a secure conclusion and a perfect vantage point to take in the rugged Colorado landscape around you—pine forests spreading across the valleys, and distant peaks standing silent in the late afternoon sun.
Hold My Graphite is a single-pitch route, lending itself well to climbers seeking a spirited sport climb without lengthy approaches or complex logistics. The route sits comfortably at the 5.9- grade, with a crux that feels firm but fair and mellow climbing elsewhere that make it an accessible challenge for those pushing into the 5.9 level. Expect roughly 14 bolts protecting your path, ensuring the focus stays on flow and movement rather than gear placement.
For those targeting this route, planning is straightforward but worth thoughtful preparation. The approach via Devil's Head is well-marked though exposed in spots, requiring steady footing over rocky terrain. Timing your climb in the morning or late afternoon helps avoid the midday sun that beats down on the south-facing walls. Proper climbing shoes with sticky rubber will pay dividends on the thin edges and textured holds, while hydration is key to maintaining sharpness given the altitude and exposure.
This route captures the spirit of South Platte’s climbing scene: straightforward, textured rock that demands concentration and rewards persistence without unnecessary complexity. It’s a climb that invites both novices stepping up to 5.9 and more experienced climbers looking for a quick, satisfying send with quality movement and a memorable finish. Pair this climb with other nearby routes in Devil’s Head for a day of varied terrain, solid rock, and panoramic mountain views that make each effort worthwhile.
The route is exposed, especially on the arete section, meaning a fall could swing climbers into the wall with force. Bolts are well-placed, but maintaining control through the crux and committing to each move is critical. The approach trail features loose rock sections — exercise caution on descent and arrival.
Start early or late in the day to avoid intense sun on the south-facing walls.
Bring sticky climbing shoes to maximize grip on edges and aretes.
Hydrate well before and during the climb due to the altitude and dry air.
Approach trail is rocky with occasional exposure — wear sturdy shoes and watch footing.
Approximately 14 bolts plus a fixed anchor protect this route, allowing climbers to focus fully on the climbing and technique rather than gear placement. The bolt spacing keeps the climb safe and flowing.
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