Spirit Rock’s Hocus Pocus offers a compelling blend of technical trad climbing and striking Sierra views, perfect for climbers ready to test their skills on a direct 5.10a route. This two-pitch ascent stretches 300 feet upward through a rugged, sunlit granite face, with each pitch crafting its own narrative from subtle corners to runout crack systems. You begin by tackling a right-facing corner on the first pitch, where the rock’s texture challenges your footwork, and the 5.10a crux emerges as you move past the third bolt, negotiating tight overlaps that demand both strength and precision. As the tension eases beyond the crux, a short traverse leads past two more bolts to a secure two-bolt belay, perched on a small ledge with a clear view of Sherman Pass’s sweeping Sierra foothills.

The second pitch takes you slightly left from the belay, moving carefully toward a single bolt that protects the start of a hand-sized parallel crack system. While moderately runout here, the climb remains engaging, requiring careful gear placement and focused movement. These cracks guide you upward to a spacious ledge—a welcome restpoint bathed in afternoon sun. From the ledge’s right edge, an exciting sequence leads upward and right to surmount a pronounced overhang before final moves shift slightly left and ascend to a chained two-bolt anchor near the summit of this impressive granite formation. The cliff’s warm granite drinks in the day’s heat, making early morning or late afternoon climbs ideal to avoid peak sun exposure.

Safety and preparation are critical on Hocus Pocus. Bring two 60-meter ropes to rappel safely from the top anchor, and be ready with a trad rack reaching up to #3 Camelots plus a small set of nuts for secure gear placements. Six quickdraws and slings will assist with clipping the bolted sections and extending your protection around tricky overlaps. The rock generally offers solid holds, but runouts on pitch two call for mental focus and confident route reading. Approach trails from Sherman Pass are moderately steep and mostly clear, so allocate 30-40 minutes to access the base trailhead, GPS coordinates 36.0139 N, -118.3470 W. Keep dehydration and sun protection in mind, especially on warmer days, as shade is limited on exposed faces.

Hocus Pocus is a prime choice for adventurous climbers who want a moderate test of endurance and technique without the crowds. The route’s blend of sustained difficulty, gear challenges, and the chance to move fluidly through varied crack and face climbing sections make it a memorable experience. Whether you’re honing your trad skills or simply after a rewarding day out in the Southern Sierra’s rugged granite walls, this route delivers clarity and challenge in equal measure, framed by the vast California wilderness surrounding Sherman Pass.