"Hit It Ethel blends hands-on crack climbing with technical bolt-protected face moves, offering a solid single-pitch trad challenge in the iconic Wonderland of Rocks. Its approachable length and reliable protection make it a rewarding introduction to Joshua Tree's classic granite."
Hit It Ethel invites climbers to experience a straightforward yet memorable climb on Mary Ann's Face, within the sprawling Wonderland of Rocks in Joshua Tree National Park. This 100-foot single-pitch route strikes a balanced blend of crack and face climbing, making it an approachable objective for trad climbers with moderate experience. The climb starts with hands-on crack moves near the base, where the texture of the stone feels coarse and demanding, encouraging attentive footwork and steady placement of pro. As you ascend, the route transitions rightward into a horizontal break that offers a brief opportunity to shake out and recalibrate before heading into a stretch of black rock that demands more focus. Here, a handful of well-placed bolts guard bold, technical face moves that test balance and delicate foot placement. The black rock textures here contrast sharply against the lighter tones below and catch the sunlight in a way that makes every hold visually distinct.
The setting itself is a climber’s dream—the Wonderland of Rocks delivers classic Joshua Tree scenery, where granite domes rise sharply into the clear desert sky and the dry air carries the scent of creosote and sun-warmed stone. The approach weaves through the lightly vegetated desert floor, with sandy soil crunching underfoot and the occasional scrub brush swaying gently in the breeze. Elevation here is moderate, but the altitude provides expansive views of the surrounding rocky maze, making any rest on the route a quiet moment to drink in the stark beauty of the park.
Protection on Hit It Ethel is straightforward: pro placements up to three inches are frequent and reliable, providing confidence for climbers placing their own gear. In addition to traditional gear, three bolts protect the more exposed face crux near the top. This combination makes the climb accessible without sacrificing a bit of heady exposure and adventure. For hands hungry for variety, the crack at the route’s beginning offers satisfying jamming and finger locks, while the face section demands precision and balance.
Plan your climb to avoid the midday desert heat—mornings and late afternoons offer cooler temperatures and longer shadows across the rock, easing the grip challenge and enhancing visibility on the black face holds. Bringing enough water is essential; even short climbs in Joshua Tree require hydration due to the desert sun and dry air. Sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber will help master the face sections, while a comfortable crack glove may make the jamming more manageable.
Hit It Ethel is a classic piece of Joshua Tree’s climbing inventory: accessible yet engaging, it offers a taste of crack climbing before inviting you onto the more technical face terrain. Whether you are refining crack techniques or seeking a solid single-pitch adventure on quality granite, this route delivers with style and straightforward protection.
Watch your rope drag on the horizontal section transitioning right, and avoid unnecessary gear placements that might cause rope drag. The bolts near the face crux provide key protection but do not eliminate the need for solid traditional placements. The rock is generally sound, but always test holds in Joshua Tree’s desert granite.
Start early to avoid desert heat and enjoy cooler rock temps on the face section.
Bring plenty of water; the approach and climb happen in dry, arid conditions.
Wear sticky climbing shoes to handle the delicate face moves on black rock.
A small pair of crack gloves helps with grip and comfort during the initial jammy moves.
This route requires standard trad gear capable of placements up to 3 inches, plus three fixed bolts near the upper face section to secure critical moves. A rack emphasizing cams in the 0.5 to 3 inch range will cover all protection needs for the crack and face segments.
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